1
Fig. 1
2
Fig. 3
3
4
5
6
7
Fig. 9
installation hardware kit as per the illustration. The black leads from the fixture go to the black
supply lead and the white leads from the fixture go to the white supply lead. Tighten the wire nuts
properly to prevent the wires from coming loose. Tape the wire nuts to the wire using electrical
tape (Fig. 8). Carefully push any excess wiring back inside the electrical box (Fig. 9).
8
9
Fig. 12
10
Fig. 13
Fig. 13
11
Fig. 15
Fig. 15
Place fingertips above the locking tab on the face of the wire
compartment, press on the cover and lift up (Fig. 1). NOTE: You
may have to disengage each before it can freely be removed.
Once you have determined the position the fixture will be mounted,
mark the corresponding knock-out closest to the insulated
multi-wire end and remove it (Fig. 3). CAREFULLY REMOVE THE
KNOCK-OUT BY HAMMERING A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER OR
PUNCH UNTIL THE SURFACE BREAKS. If the knock-out did not
break free, use pliers and bend it back and forth until it snaps off.
Attach a wire coupling by inserting the threaded end (from
Fig. 4
outside the fixture) through the knock-out. Secure the wire
coupling to the fixture's chassis by tightening the fastener (from
inside the fixture (Fig. 4). NOTE: Remember to have the wire
coupling screws oriented in a manner that allows you to
tighten/loosen the clamp after the fixture has been attached to
the mounting surface.
Insert the flexible whip or NM cable through the wire coupling
Fig. 5
and tighten the clamp until it is secure (Fig. 5). Allow enough
wire length to make the connection. WARNING: Make sure the
POWER is OFF.
Inside the wire compartment are 2 lead wires: a black wire and
a white wire, both with crimp-on wire nuts, as well as a green
ground wire (Fig. 6). These are the only wires that will be
connected to the supply wires.
Fig. 6
Using a wire cutter, cut each lead directly below the wire
Fig. 7
nut (Fig. 7). When cutting, make sure there is enough wire to
complete the connection. After removing the wire nut,
carefully strip away about 3/8 in. of the insulation. NOTE: Do
not remove the crimp-on wire connectors and try to use
them again. Use the screw-on wire nuts included in the
hardware kit.
For safety and proper operation, your fixture must be properly
grounded. If you are unfamiliar with the methods of properly
grounding your fixture, consult a qualified electrician. A copper
Fig. 8
ground wire is pre- attached to your fixture. If your electrical box is
made of plastic and/or has a green or has a bare copper grounding
wire inside, the fixture grounding wire and the electrical box
ground wire should be connected together using one of the small
wire nuts. If your fixture is being connected using a flexible whip
or NM cable the fixture grounding wire and the electrical supply
ground wire should be connected together using one of the small
wire nuts. If your electrical box is made of metal and is already
grounded, secure the bare end of the fixture ground wire to the
crossbar using the green grounding screw on the crossbar.
Connect the supply leads from the electrical box to the fixture wire
leads using the medium sized wire nuts supplied in your
Align the lip on both ends with the slots on the fixture chassis
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 11
Secure the fixture chassis cover by placing fingertips above
the locking tab on the face of the cover. Press on the cover
and lock the front edge under the locking tab (Fig. 12). NOTE:
You may have to engage each one individually before it can be
secured.
Install the bulb into the sockets by aligning the pins of the bulb
Fig. 14
Fig. 14
Place the diffuser in the top lip. Push the grooved edge of the
diffuser down into the bottom edge until it locks in (Fig. 15).
Your installation is now complete. Restore power to the
electrical box.
Once the wire compartment is free, remove it
and set it aside (Fig. 2). NOTE: Inside you will
find the hardware kit that contains all the
hardware necessary for a normal installation.
Fig. 2
then press on the cover and slip the edge under
the clips (Fig. 10 & Fig. 11).
with the slot in the sockets (Fig. 13). Using your
thumb and forefinger, press the metal ends of
the bulb socket, and roll the bulb forward until it
rotates 90 degrees inside the socket, making
contact between the bulb pins and the socket
contacts (Fig. 14).
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