3.5.1 When electrode of proper size is
used
3.5.1.a. The bead will lay smoothly over the work
piece without ragged edges
3.5.1.b. The base metal puddle will be as deep as
the bead that rises above it
3.5.1.c. The welding operation will make a crackling
sound similar to the sound of eggs frying
3.5.2 When too thin electrode is used
3.5.2.a. The weld bead will be too high and irregular
3.5.2.b. The arc will be difficult to maintain
3.5.3 When too thick electrode is used
3.5.3.a. The arc will burn through thin metals
3.5.3.b. Occurrence of the weld bead undercutting
3.5.3.c. The bead will be flat and porous
3.5.3.d. Rod might get freezed or sticked to the
workpiece
Note: Rate of travel over the workpiece also affects
the weld. To ensure proper penetration and enough
rod deposit, the arc must be moved slowly and
evenly along the weld seam.
3.6 Setting the adequate amperage
Your welder is capable of welding with 2.5mm,
3.2mm and 4mm electrodes.
There is no golden rule that determines the exact
amperage required for every particular situation. It
is best to practice your welds on scrap metal which
matches the metals you intend to work with in order
to determine correct settings for your job. The elec
trode type and the thickness of the metal workpiece
define the amount of heat needed in the welding
process. Heavier and thicker metals require more cur
rent (amperage), whereas lighter and thinner metals
require less current (amperage).
3.7 Welding techniques
The best way to teach yourself how to weld is with
short periods of practice at regular intervals. All
practice welds should be done on scrap metal that
can be discarded. Do not attempt to make any
repairs on valuable equipment until you are satisfied
with yourself and your practice welds are of good
appearance and free of slag or gas inclusions.
3.7.1 Holding the electrode
The best way to grip the electrode holder is the way
that feels most comfortable to you. To position the
electrode on a workpiece when striking the initial
arc, it is necessary to hold the electrode perpendic
ular to the workpiece. Once the arc is started the
angle of the electrode in relation to the workpiece
should be between 10 and 30 degrees. This will
allow good weld penetration, with minimal spatter.
27
3.7.2 Striking the arc
WARNING!
EXPOSURE TO A WELDING ARC IS EXTREMELY
HARMFUL TO THE EYES AND SKIN.
• Never strike an arc or begin welding until you
have adequate protection.
• Wear flameproof welding gloves, heavy long-
sleeved shirt, cuffless trousers, high-topped shoes
and a welding helmet or shield.
Scratch the work piece with the end of electrode to
start arc and then raise it quickly to about 3 mm
gap between the rod and the workpiece. Please
observe the following picture:
It is important that the gap is maintained during the
welding process and it should be neither too wide
or too narrow. If it is too narrow, the rod will stick to
the workpiece. If it is too wide, the arc will be extin
guished. It takes a a lot of practice to maintain the
gap. Beginners may usually get sticking or arc extin
guishing. When the rod sticks to the workpiece, gen
tly rock it back and forth to separate it from the work
piece. If you don't, the short circuit occurs, which
leads to welder overload. A good arc is accompa
nied by a crisp, cracking sound. The sound is similar
to that made when frying eggs. To lay a weld bead,
only 2 movements are required; downwards and in
direction of the weld to be laid, as shown in the fol
lowing picture:
3.7.3 Types of weld beads
The following paragraphs discuss the most com
monly used arc welding beads.
The stringer bead is formed when electrode is
traveling in a straight line while kept centered over
the weld joint.