Delta 46-715 Manual De Instrucciones página 15

VEE GROOVES
Cutting the vee groove demands much the same technique as
the bead, except that the skew is hinged straight into the work
without rotation (Fig. 51). Only one-half of the vee is made at a
time, and one, two, or more cuts may be needed on each side
to obtain the desired shape. As in all cutting with the skew,
use the bevel next to the cut as a fulcrum. Be careful not to
allow the full edge of the chisel to catch and cause a run. Vee
grooves can also be made with the toe of the skew, in the
same manner as squaring an end.
Fig. 51
LONG CUTS
Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered
surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in making
Fig. 52
the finishing cut is shown in Fig. 52. Turn the gouge on the
tool rest so that it will be inclined in the direction that it will
move. The bevel is at approximately a 45 degree angle to the
work, and the center point of the cutting edge is the contact
point with the wood. As the cut progresses toward and
around the end of the curve, the handle is gradually raised
and swiveled to the right (Fig. 53) in order to maintain the
angle between the grind and workpiece.
Fig. 54
Fig. 53
Figs. 54 and 55 show the cutting of a long taper with a skew.
The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder only at the
start of the cut. The starting cut should be made with the heel
(Fig. 54) to prevent the tool from digging into the work. As
the tool moves down the work, the chisel can be pulled back
to allow the center point of the cutting edge to cut. However,
the full taper can be made with the heel. Be careful not to cut
too deeply at the center of the taper. The direction of cutting
is always downhill.
Fig. 55
COVE CUTS
Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is
the most difficult to master. This cut is made with the gouge,
where the size of the tool depends on the size of the cut.
Push the gouge directly into the work to remove the surplus
stock (Fig.56).
Fig. 56
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