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Deep Hive Body Also known as the brood box, the Deep
Hive Body is where the queen will lay her eggs and the
worker bees will raise the larvae (brood). It holds ten deep
(9-1/8" tall) frames. To start a hive, only one Deep Hive
Body is needed. As your colony grows, more boxes (Deep
Hive Bodies or Medium Supers) will need to be added. We
recommend adding another Deep Hive Body first then one
or more Medium Supers to collect honey for harvest after
that. Check with your local beekeeping association for what
works best in your region.
Frames with Foundation The frames are made of unfin-
ished pine with foundation already installed. The foundation
is made of injection-molded plastic and the honeycomb
cells are coated with beeswax to encourage the bees to
build comb. Note that the frames in the Deep Hive Body
(brood box) have a black foundation, making it easier to
see the white eggs and larvae during a hive inspection
ensuring the queen is laying eggs and increasing the size of
the colony. The frames in the Medium Super (honey super)
have a natural coloring, preferred for honey harvesting.
There are ten frames with foundation included in one Little
Giant® Deep Hive Body, as well as ten frames with founda-
tion included in one Little Giant® Medium Super. Both types
of replacements frames are sold separately in packs of five
(Medium Frames MFRLITE and Deep Frames DFRBLACK).
Entrance Reducer A small, removable piece of wood that
sits between the bottom board and the first brood box. The
reducer has two openings to adjust the size as necessary
throughout the season. The small opening is the optimal
opening size for bees to come and go. The larger opening
is for use with the entrance feeder (ENTFDR sold separately)
while still allowing room for the bees.
Mite Board and Screened Bottom Board A mite board is a
removable foam core grid for mite management. This white
1"x1" mite grid is located at the bottom board under the
screen. Mites fall through the screened bottom board onto
the corrugated plastic board, which slides in and out easily
for viewing. This allows the beekeeper to determine the
count of mites that may be present in the hive and
when (or if ) the hive should be treated. Smear a light
layer of petroleum jelly on the board to make the mites
stick, and then you simply count the mites on one 1"x1"
grid to calculate the intensity of the mite count in
the hive. Contact your local beekeepers' association
to learn more about mite control and treatment.
10-FRAME COMPLETE BEEHIVE
Item # HIVE10 KIT
Miller Manufacturing Company • Glencoe, MN 55336 USA • www.miller-mfg.com
SETTING UP YOUR HIVE:
Hive Coating
This Complete Hive is made of unfinished pine. Since the
hive will be outdoors year-round, we recommend a coating
of paint or stain and varnish. This coating is to go on the
outside of the hive only. Internal walls and frames should
be left unfinished. A good quality exterior latex paint is a
popular choice with beekeepers. Some beekeepers prefer
to stain and varnish their hives for a more natural look, and
there are eco-friendly finishes available for this purpose. The
hive should be finished several weeks before the bees will
be installed.
Multiple hives
It is highly recommended to have at least two hives on your
property. As a beginning beekeeper, it is valuable to have
two hives to learn by comparing and contrasting honey
production, bee population, and overall hive health. Also, if
one hive fails, swarms, or loses its queen, the second colony
can help the weaker or abandoned one.
Installing Bees
Bees are available from many different sources. It is
recommended that the beginning beekeeper join a local
beekeepers' association, which can provide a wealth of
information regarding where, when, and how to install
bees in your region.
Keep reading and learning!
There are many books available to buy or borrow from the
library on beekeeping. Both Beekeeping for Dummies and
The Backyard Beekeeper by Kim Flottum are full of valu-
able information on tending to and troubleshooting your
backyard hives! Many universities have entomology depart-
ments with experts at the ready to answer your questions,
such as University of Minnesota's beelab.umn.edu or
Oregon State University's honeybeelab.oregonstate.edu.
Not Included, but recommended: Hive Stand
Where and how you should place your hive is an
important element of a successful hive.
The hive should be raised off of the
ground at least 2" to ensure it is well-
drained and less likely to be invaded
by unwanted pests. Two concrete
blocks and a piece of plywood make
176101 Rev A 6-3-14
Guide to Your Hive
a simple and solid base on which
to set your hive and prevent pest
access from the hive bottom.
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