SETTING THE DEPTH OF CUT POINTER (PIC.25)
If the blade is not level with the surface of the table when the
pointer is in line with zero on the depth scale, the following
adjustment is required. Lower the blade to its lowest position.
Place a straight edge across the table in line with the centre
of the table insert (Pic.25) (25.1). Raise the blade until the
uppermost tooth tip just makes contact with the blade (Pic.25)
(25.2). Remove the blade (see removing the blade). With the
blade removed locate the pointer securing bolt (Pic.26) (26.1).
Slacken the securing nut and adjust the pointer to align with
zero on the depth of cut scale. Tighten the pointer securing bolt
and check the setting is at zero. Re-fit the blade (see fitting the
blade).
TILTING THE BLADE (PIC.27)
This machine is fitted with a blade assembly that can be tilted to
achieve cuts of between 0° & 45°.
To tilt the blade assembly, locate the two blade assembly
securing knobs (Pic.27) (27.1). Slacken both knobs and select
the angle of cut using the degree scale just above the front
securing knob (Pic.27) (27.2). When the desired angle has been
set, tighten the two securing knobs.
Note: The degree scale is a guide only, for accurate angle cuts
we recommend the use of an adjustable protractor.
CONTROLS AND ACCESSORIES.
The following is a brief description of each control and accessory
and its typical uses.
THE ELEVATING HANDLE. (PIC.28)
The elevating handle is used to raise and lower the blade. Turn
the handle clockwise to raise the blade and counter clockwise
to lower the blade.
THE TILTING HANDLE.
The tilting handle is used to tilt the blade for bevel cutting. Turn
the handle clockwise to tilt toward the left, and counter clockwise
to tilt toward the right.
THE LOCKING KNOB. (PIC.27)
The locking knob is used to lock the required blade height and
tilt positions.
To loosen the locking knob turn it counter clockwise. Before
turning the table saw «ON», be sure that the locking knob is
securely tightened so that the blade will not shift during the table
saw operation.
THE RIVING KNIFE (29). (SEE SPECIFIC SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CORRECT SETTING)
The riving knife ensures that when a cut is made the two pieces
of timber on either side of the blade do not close up onto the
blade. This prevents possible binding and kickback.
THE RIP FENCE. (PIC.30)
The rip fence is used to guide the material when making long
cuts, usually cutting along the grain
NEVER rip freehand without the fence in place and securely
locked.
THE MITRE GAUGE. (PIC.31)
The mitre gauge is typically used to guide the work piece when
cross cutting (across the grain) and can be set to cut at various
angles. It can be used in either of the grooves machined in the
table. Always ensure that it is locked securely when in use.
CROSS CUTTING (PIC.32)
Cross cutting is cutting wood across the grain at 90°or square
with both the edge and the flat side of the wood
MITRE CROSS CUTTING (PIC.33)
Mitre crosscutting is cutting the wood at an angle other than
90° with the edge of the wood. Follow the same procedures as
you would for crosscutting. But adjust the mitre gauge to the
desired angle.
BEVEL CROSS CUTTING (PIC.34)
Bevel crosscutting is the same as crosscutting except that the
wood is also cut at an angle other than at 90° with the flat side
of the wood. Follow the same procedures as you would for
crosscutting. But adjust the blade to the desired angle. Use the
mitre gauge in the groove to the right of the blade to avoid the
blade guard from interfering with the cut.
WARNING!
When crosscutting, mitre cutting, bevel cutting and when
rabbeting across the end of a narrow work piece always use
the mitre gauge.
NEVER make these cuts freehand (not using the mitre gauge
or the other devices) because the blade could bind causing a
kickback or causing your hand or fingers to contact the blade.
ALWAYS lock the mitre gauge when in use. Remove the rip
fence from the table when not in use. Make sure the blade
safety guard is mounted for all through sawing operations (the
blade cuts through the entire thickness of the work piece). The
blade should extend approximately 3.5mm (1/ 8") above the top
of the work piece.
COMPOUND MITRE CUTTING. (PIC.35)
Compound mitre cutting is a combination of mitre cutting and
bevel crosscutting. The cut is made at an angle other than 90°
to both the edge and the flat side of the wood. Adjust the mitre
gauge and the blade to the desired angle and be sure that the
mitre gauge is locked
REPETITIVE CUTTING. (PIC.36)
Repetitive cutting is cutting a number of pieces the same length,
without having to mark each piece. The safe way to perform
repetitive cutting, is to set the rip fence to give the required
length, and to be clear of the front of the blade (Pic.36). When
the cut is made, the end of the work piece is clear of the rip
fence but at the required length.
NEVER use the rip fence as a length stop because the cut off
piece could bind between the fence and the blade causing a
29
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