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GUIDE FENCES
When molding, the workpiece must be guided into the
molding cutter bits or knives properly in order to pro-
duce the desired shape and size molding. Using prop-
erly adjusted guide fences assures the workpiece pass-
es the molding cutters/knives
in the same position
using multiple passes.
Guide fences should be made from smooth, straight
hardwood. Guide fences should be the same length as
auxiliary table (311/4") and 2" wide. Cut the guide fences
1/4"lower than the maximum thickness of the final work-
piece profile. The guide fences must be notched to
clear the infeed/outfeed rollers and anti-kickback pawls.
See Figure 22 on below for dimension.
To mount guide fences to table/auxiliary table:
•
Install molding cutter bits/knives in the cutterhead.
See "Installing Cutter Bits" and "Installing the Pattern
Knives".
•
Lower the table and carefully turn cutterhead by
hand so that one cutter bit/knife is at the lowest point
of the cutting edge.
•
Position the workpiece beneath the cutter bit/knife.
•
Slide in first guide fence and position inside edge of
guide rail to outside edge of workpiece.
•
Clamp the guide fence to table/auxiliary table using
"C" clamps on both ends.
•
Position second guide fence on the other side of the
workpiece and clamp it to table/auxiliary table.
•
Make sure workpiece slides between guide fences
smoothly and without binding.
91/z ' '
_
12W' _._
9W'
I s/8 (Minirnum)_///'/_j///
//,/"_7"/_/_
t
"A"will change depending upon thickness of finished workpiece.
Dimension 'W'=Maximum Thickness of Final Workpiece - W'
Figure 22 - Guide Fence (Side View)
RELIEF
KNIVES
Many of the 1/4"pattern knives are supplied with relief
knives. The relief knives are used to cut a relief on the
back side of the molding so that the molding will better
fit irregular surfaces such as plastered walls.
Always cut the relief first before molding the workpiece,
so that there is a flat surface for the workpiece to slide
on during the molding operation. If the molding is done
first, the workpiece will not lie flat on the feed table and
therefore the relief cannot be cut.
SETTING
UP FOR MOLDING
•
Mount auxiliary table onto cast iron table.
•
Install the required molding cutter bits/knives in the
cutterhead.
•
Lower the table and insert the workpiece relative to
the position of cutter bits/knives.
•
Install the guide fences relative to the position of the
workpiece.
•
Raise the table until the workpiece just contacts the
infeed roller.
•
Record the height of the table as indicated on the
scale.
•
Lower the table and remove workpiece.
•
Raise the table back to the recorded measurement.
Continue to raise the table one full turn of the hand-
wheel. Record the measurement -- this is the first
pass measurement.
•
Switch on the planer/molder and insert the work-
piece until the feed roller begins to advance the
workpiece.
NOTE: When using certain cutter bits/knives, the
workpiece may feed in a jerky motion. If this hap-
pens, turn the handwheel and raise the table until
the workpiece advances smoothly. Revise the first
pass measurement with the current reading.
•
During molding operation, do not exceed 1/4"total
depth of cut.
•
If your molding requires several passes, make sure
you run all your stock before changing the set-up for
each pass. This will assure conformity of shape
between workpieces.
FACE MOLDING
Refer to Figure 23 below.
NOTE: Always cut the relief first before molding the
workpiece.
•
Mount the required cutter bits or pattern knives in
the planer/molder cutterhead. (See "Installing Cutter
Bits or Installing the Pattern Knives", pages 9 and 10.)
•
Position the guide fences on each side of the bits or
knife in the desired position. (See "Guide Fences").
Figure 23 - Face Molding
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