TECHNiQUES
See figure 9
fELLiNg A TREE
When bucking and felling operations are being performed by
two or more persons at the same time, the felling operation
should be separated from the bucking operation by a distance
of at least twice the height of the tree being felled. Trees
should not be felled in a manner that would endanger any
person, strike any utility line or cause any property damage.
If the tree does make contact with any utility line, the utility
company should be notified immediately.
The chain saw operator should keep on the uphill side of the
terrain as the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after it is
felled. An escape path should be planned and cleared as
necessary before cuts are started. The escape path should
extend back and diagonally to the rear of the expected line of
fall. Before felling is started, consider the natural lean of the
tree, the location of larger branches and the wind direction to
judge which way the tree will fall. Remove dirt, stones, loose
bark, nails, and staples from the tree.
NOTCHiNg UNDERCUT (A NOTCH CUT IN A TREE TO
DIRECT THE FALL) See Figure 10
Make the notch 1/3 in diameter of the tree, perpendicular to
the direction of falls. Make the lower horizontal notching cut
first, this will help to avoid pinching of either the saw chain or
the guide bar when the second notch is being made.
fELLiNg BACK CUT (THE FINAL CUT IN A TREE FELLING
OPERATION, MADE ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE
TREE FROM THE NOTCHING UNDERCUT)
See Figure 10
Make the felling back cut at least 50mm higher than the
horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling back cut parallel to
the horizontal notching cut. Make the felling back cut so as to
leave enough wood to act as a hinge. The hinge wood keeps
the tree from twisting and falling in the wrong direction. Do
not cut through the hinge. As the felling cut gets close to the
hinge, the tree should begin to fall. If there is any chance that
the tree may not fall in the desired direction or it may rock
back and bind the saw chain, stop cutting before the felling
back cut is complete and use wedges of wood, plastic or
aluminium to open the cut and drop the tree along the desired
line of fall. When the tree begins to fall, remove the chain saw
from the cut, stop the motor, put the chain saw down, and
then use the retreat path as planned. Be alert of overhead
limbs falling and watch your footing.
LiMBiNg A TREE
See Figure 11
Limbing is removing the branches from a fallen tree. When
limbing, leave the larger lower limbs to support the log off the
ground. Remove the small limbs in one cut. Branches under
tension should be cut from the bottom up, to avoid binding
the chain saw.
BUCKiNg A LOg
See figure 12 - 15
Bucking is cutting a log into lengths. It is important to make
sure your footing is fi rm and your weight is evenly distributed
on both feet. When possible, the log should be raised and
supported by the use of limbs, logs or chocks. Follow the
simple direction for easy cutting:
1. When the log is supported along the entire length, it is cut
from the top (over buck).
2. When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 of the
diameter from the underside (under buck). Then make the fi
nished cut by over bucking to meet the fi rst cut.
3. When the log is supported on both ends, cut 1/3 of that
diameter from the top (over buck). Then make the fi nished
cut by under bucking the lower 2/3 to meet the fi rst cut.
4. When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side of
the log. When cutting through, to maintain complete control,
release the cutting pressure near the end of the cut without
relaxing your grip on the chain saw handles.
Do not let the chain contact the ground. After completing the
cut, wait for the saw chain to stop before you move the chain
saw. Always stop the motor before moving from tree to tree.
UNDERHÅLL
Always remove the battery pack from the machine before
checking the chain tension or making adjustments to the
chain. Wear protective gloves while touching the chain, bar
or areas around the chain.
ADJUSTING THE CHAIN TENSION See fi gure 2
■ Un-tighten the sprocket cover tighten knob (item 15)
slightly by turning it counterclockwise.
■ To increase the chain tension, turn the chain tensioner
adjustment knob (item 13) clockwise and check thechain
tension frequently. To reduce the chain tension,
turn the chain tensioner adjustment knob (item 13)
counterclockwise and check the chain tension frequently.
■ The chain tension is correct when the gap between the
cutter in the chain and the bar is between 3mm-4mm.
Pull the chain in the middle of the lower side of the
bar downwards (away from the bar) and measure the
distance between the bar and the chain cutters.
■ Tighten the sprocket cover tighten knob (item 15) by
turning it clockwise.
REPLACiNg THE BAR AND CHAiN
See Figure 2, 3, 5, 7
■ Put the saw down on a flat and even surface to make
adjustments to the chain.
■ Make sure that you have the correct replacement bar
and chain as advised earlier in the specification section
of this manual.
■ Unscrew the sprocket cover tighten knob (item 15) by
turning it counterclockwise until the sprocket cover (item
14) comes loose.
■ Remove the sprocket cover. Remove the bar and saw
chain from unit.
■ To replace the bar with the new one, unscrew the nut of
the safety tip, mount the safety tip on to the new bar and
tighten the nut.
■ Put the new chain in the correct direction as shown in
figure 7 onto the bar and make sure that the drive links
are aligned in the bar groove (figure 5).
■ Attach the bar to the chain saw and loop the chain
around the drive sprocket as shown in figure 3.
■ Replace the sprocket cover (item 14), tighten sprocket
cover and tighten knob (item 15).
69
WARNiNg