Eaton Roughneck E1049 Serie Instrucciones De Ensamblado, Uso Y Cuidado página 3

LUBRICANT
A spray lubricant such as CRC 02094 spray may be used to aid in assembly of the
contact to the insulator.
MOLD RELEASE
Lubricate molds with a solution of four (4) parts water to one (1) part liquid soap
to prevent sticking. Apply this solution by brushing onto hot surface four or five
times before making first molding; therefore, apply as needed to prevent sticking.
If silicone is used, be careful not to get silicone on gloves and transfer it to cable
and tape, as the silicone will prevent bonding of tape to insulator and cable.
MOLD BUSHING
The proper mold bushing must be used for each cable size. The bushing I.D.
should be approximately 1/64 inch smaller than cable O.D. A bushing which is
too large allows molding tape to squeeze out causing a poor molding. A bushing
which is too small prevents mold closing or cuts cable, causing poor molding.
TEMPIL-STIKS are available from Tempil Inc 2901 Hamiliton Blvd South Plainfield,
New Jersey, 07080, Phone 800-757-8301 and also available from most welding
supply or electrical supply companies.
ADHESIVE
Cable jackets must be thoroughly cleaned with solvent such as Methyl-Ethyl
Ketone or preferably ground with a belt sander, wood rasp or stiff wire brush to
remove all dirt and wax.
A neoprene adhesive such as Chemlok part number TS3604-50 (available through
Lintech International 800-652-9297) should be applied to cable jacket, insulator
I.D. or O.D. This should be allowed to dry before application of neoprene tape.
Consult factory for special adhesives for use on cable jackets other than
neoprene.
MOLDING PROCEDURE – MALE OR FEMALE CONNECTOR
1. Cut cable to desired length. Use sharp cable cutter. Do not saw conductor
as this distorts cable stranding so that it will not fit into crimp tube.
2. Strip approximately 1-7/8" of cable jacket. Insert bare conductor into contact
crimp tube crimp with crimping die for specific cable size. Die must be fully
closed. Crimp two places in undercut portion of contact.
3. Roughen cable jacket approximately 4" behind contact to remove all dirt and
wax. A coarse rasp, coarse wire wheel or abrasive sanding belt may be
used.
4. Coat roughened cable jacket with neoprene cement. Allow to dry until tacky.
5. Wrap cable with neoprene tape, keeping tension on tape. Wrap tape from
contact back so that approximately ½" will extend beyond end of insulator.
Build tape up until it will give a snug fit on I.D. insulator. Wrap last layer of
tape from cable toward contact for easier assembly into insulator.
6. Roughen up about 1" of the I.D. and O.D. of the insulator at cable end.
7 . Push contact into cable end of insulator until pins on contact touch metal ring
inside insulator. Rotate insulator until U shaped notched inside of ring align
with pins. Push approximately 3/8" further until spring retainer ring around
contact locks into metal ring inside of insulator. Test by pulling back on cable.
Spring lock ring locks behind insulator ring to hold contact.
8. Paint roughened portion of insulator with adhesive.
IF 1778 • 12/15
Figure 5
Copyright © 2015, Eaton's Crouse-Hinds Division
9. Wrap two or three layers of tape over rear end of insulator and continue
back onto the cable jacket approximately ½" . This wrapping of tape
should fill in the offset at the point where cable jacket enters the
insulator.
10. Place connector insulator in mold. Check to be sure that mold bushing
is proper size for cable. Mold bushing I.D. should be approximately 1/64"
smaller than cable O.D.
11. Close top half of mold. Mold must be completely closed. Close slowly,
tightening clamping screw as tape heats up. Mold should be bolted to
top of work bench to securely anchor it.
12. Mold at 325-350°F for approximately 20 minutes. Neoprene tape will be
firm and tough when completely cured.
13. Remove from mold. Allow to cool. Trim off excess flash with razor blade
or sharp knife or scissors.
MAINTENANCE OF VULCANIZER
It may be necessary to recalibrate thermostat if the vulcanizer was
mishandled in shipping. Following are several common problems and
corrective action to correct the problem.
Problem
1. Pilot light stays lit. Does not turn off.
2. Pilot lights don't light.
Replacing Pilot Light:
A. Unplug vulcanizer supply plug.
B. Pilot lights are rugged, sealed assemblies. When one burns out, replace with
entire unit by loosening screws on terminal board, remove locknut on back of pilot
light, remove pilot light, replace with new pilot light assembly.
3. Molding doesn't cure.
4. Molding scorched.
5. Neoprene tape does not bond
to insulator or cable.
6. Insulator is loose on cable after
molding.
7 . Can't close mold.
8. Mold will not heat.
Cause and Corrective Action
1. Contacts on thermostat are stuck.
Turn adjustment screw left and right to
attempt to free contacts. Recalibrate
mold. Order new thermostat if light
remains on.
2. Thermostat set too high. Check
temperature of mold, if above 350°F
setting by rotating adjustment screw
clockwise. See detailed instructions at
end.
1. Check light, probably burned out or
broken. Replace with new light.
1. Mold temperature too low. Check
temperature. It should be 325-
350°F . Raise temperature by rotating
adjustment screw on thermo switch
counterclockwise. See detailed
instructions at end.
1. See problem 1 above. Thermostat
set too high, check mold temperature.
Adjust thermostat.
1. Dirty cable or insulator. Failed to use
bonding agent on cable and insulator.
Wrong bonding agent for cable being
used. Consult factory for recommended
bonding agent. Cable jacket
contaminated with grease, silicone, etc.
1. Did not build up tape large enough to
fit snugly into insulator.
1. Too much tape used either on cable
causing insulator to expand or too much
tape on insulator.
2. Allow molding to warm up and keep
applying pressure with clamp screw to
close it as tape flows under heat.
3. Reduce wrapping as required.
1. Switch not "ON" .
2. Heater burned out. Replace with new
heater.
3. Bad switch. Replace switch.
4. Bad thermo switch. Replace with new
thermo switch.
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