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10. Turn ON the saw. Allow the saw to come to full
speed.
11. Use a push stick and/or push blocks to move the
piece into the cut.
12. Turn OFF the saw. Wait for the blade to come to
a complete stop before removing the workpiece.
13. Once all non-through cuts are complete, remove
the battery pack and reinstall the riving knife with
guard and anti-kickback pawls.
Making a Dado Cut
Blades are sharp. Wear work gloves
WARNING
when handling blades.
Always remove riving knife before
making a dado cut.
An optional dado throat plate is re-
quired for this procedure (For a com-
plete listing of accessories, go online to
www.milwaukeetool.com or contact a
distributor). All blades and dado sets must
not be rated less than the speed of this
tool. This saw is designed for use with a 6" stack
dado (up to width of 3/4"). Do not use an adjustable
dado or molding cutters on this saw.
When making a non-through cut,
WARNING
the blade is covered by the work-
piece during most of the cut. Be alert to the ex-
posed blade at the start and finish of every cut
to reduce the risk of personal injury.
To avoid personal injury, always use push blocks,
push sticks, and featherboards.
1. Remove the battery pack.
2. Remove the riving knife with blade guard and
anti-kickback pawls.
3. Remove the standard blade and install the dado
blade, according to manufacturer instructions,
using the blade and chippers appropriate for the
desired width of cut. NOTE: Always store the throat
plate, blade, flange, and bolt in a secure location.
4. Install the dado throat plate and rotate the blade
by hand to make sure it turns freely then lower
the blade.
5. Depending on the shape and size of the work-
piece, use the rip fence or miter gauge.
6. Install a feather board in the appropriate position
for the cut being made.
7. Insert the battery pack.
8. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before
turning on the saw.
9. Turn ON the saw. Allow the saw to come to full
speed.
10. Use a push stick and/or push blocks to move the
piece into the cut.
11. Turn OFF the saw. Wait for the blade to come to
a complete stop before removing the workpiece.
12. Once all non-through cuts are complete, remove
the battery pack and reinstall the standard blade,
throat plate, riving knife with guard and anti-
kickback pawls.
Troubleshooting
Problem
Excess
Blade is out of
vibration.
balance.
Blade is damaged.
Saw is not mounted
securely.
Work surface is
uneven.
Blade is warped.
Rip fence
Rip fence not
does not
mounted correctly.
move
Rails are dirty or
smoothly.
sticky.
Cutting
Blade is dull.
binds or
burns work.
Blade is heeling.
Work is fed too fast.
Rip fence is
misaligned.
Wood is warped.
Riving knife is out of
alignment.
Wood
Blade not properly
edges away
sharpened or set.
from rip
fence when
ripping.
Saw does
Bevel adjustment is
not make
out of alignment.
accurate
90˚ or 45˚
cuts.
Height
Gears or screw post
adjusting
inside cabinet are
hand-wheel
clogged with saw
is hard to
dust.
turn.
Saw does
Battery pack is at end
not start.
of charge.
Battery pack contacts
are dirty.
Blade
Blade is dull or dirty.
makes poor
cuts.
Blade is wrong type
for cut being made.
Blade is mounted
backwards.
Motor
Blade not proper for
labors in rip
rip cut.
cut.
Work is fed to fast
into blade.
16
Cause
Solution
Replace blade.
Replace blade.
Tighten all
hardware.
Reposition on flat
surface. Adjust legs
of optional stand.
Check saw blade
installation.
Replace blade if
necessary.
Remount the rip
fence.
Clean rails.
Replace or sharpen
blade.
See Blade to Miter
Slot Adjustment
(Heeling).
Slow the feed rate.
Align the rip fence.
Replace the wood.
Always cut with
convex side to
table surface.
See Riving Knife
to Saw Blade
Adjustment.
Resharpen or set
blade.
See Bevel
Adjustments at 0°
and 45°
Clean the gears or
screw post.
Charge battery
pack.
Clean battery pack
contacts.
Clean, sharpen, or
replace blade.
Replace with
correct type.
Remount blade.
Change blade; rip
blade typically has
fewer teeth.
Slow feed rate.
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