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at chest level for vertical cuts.
To carry out work to the tree trunk and with low side thrusts, the operator must stand in a
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stable position in order to work in a safe position.
If the operator needs to move away from the tree trunk and therefore requires a supporting
point, being suspended by means of ropes between a safe top anchoring point and the sling
may prove to be a good working position (see fig.15).
Fig.16 shows an example of a temporary foot strap.
Starting the chain saw on a tree
To start the chain saw on a tree, the operator must:
IF ENGINE IS COLD
Ask the operator on the ground to start and warm up the engine.
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apply the chain brake (fig. 30);
FOR THE OPERATOR STANDING ON TREE:
As the engine is pre-heated, rise the "I" lever (Fig.31 part.1).
HOLD CHAIN SAW IN ONE OF 2 WAYS SPECIFIED BELOW:
FIRSTOPTION – Tightly hold the front handle with your left hand, keeping the chain saw away
from your body and pull the starting cord with your right hand.
SECOND OPTION – Tightly hold one of the two handles with your right hand, keeping the chain
saw away from your body and pull the starting cord with your left hand.
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Before suspending the chain saw on the rope (with engine on), always apply the
chain brake (fig.30).
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Before carrying out a critical cut, the operator must always check that there is
enough fuel in the tank.
Using the chain saw with one hand
Do not use the chain saw for tree service with one hand:
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in an unstable position;
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when cutting branches of small diameter parts of the tree and at the top of trees.
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The chain saw for tree service can be used with one hand in the following circum-
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stances:
1)
when no other working position suitable for working with 2 hands can be found;
2)
when ensuring a working position with the left hand is required;
3)
when the operator needs to lean forward a lot (see fig.17).
The operator must never:
1) Cut branches using the nose of the guide bar subject to kickback (see chapter 2 paragraph
A.19);
2) hold and cut the part of the branch to be removed;
3) try to hold a falling branch.
SPIKE: When cutting very thick branches, it is useful to penetrate the wood with the spike teeth,
to cut with less effort and for a more controlled cutting action.
Removing the guide bar stuck in the wood
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