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PROBLEM
The charger is
making an audible
clicking sound.
Charger makes a
loud buzz.
Short or no start
cycle when cranking
engine.
The measured
current is much
lower than what was
selected.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Circuit breaker is cycling.
Battery is defective.
Shorted battery cables
or clamps.
Severely discharged battery, but
otherwise it is a good battery.
Reversed connections at battery.
Transformer laminations vibrate. No problem; this is a normal
Drawing more than the engine
start rate.
Failure to wait 3 minutes
(180 seconds) between cranks.
Clamps are not making a good
connection.
AC cord and/or extension cord
is loose.
No power at receptacle.
The charger may be
overheated.
Battery may be severely
discharged.
The charger reached the
maximum voltage and is
reducing the current.
The settings may be wrong. Check
the charger settings.
Have the battery checked.
Circuit breaker cycles when current
draw is too high. Check for shorted
cables or clamps and replace if
necessary.
The battery may not want to accept
a charge due to a run-down state.
Allow charging to continue until
battery has a chance to recover
sufficiently to take a charge. If more
than 20 minutes, stop charging and
have the battery checked.
Shut the charger off and correct the
lead connections.
condition.
Crank time varies with the amount
of current drawn. If cranking draws
more than the engine start rate,
crank time may be less than 3
seconds.
Wait 3 minutes of rest time before
the next crank.
Check for poor connection at battery
and frame.
Check power cord and extension
cord for loose fitting plug.
Check for open fuse or circuit
breaker supplying AC outlet.
The thermal protector may have
tripped and needs a little longer to
reset. Make sure the charger vents
are not blocked. Wait and try again.
On a severely discharged battery,
charge for 10 to 15 minutes at
the lowest rate, to help assist in
cranking.
No problem; this is a normal
condition.
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REASON/SOLUTION
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