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Fig. S
Cutting Base Molding up to 1" (25,4 mm) Thick by Up to 3-5/8"
(91 mm) Wide Vertically Against the Fence (Fig L, S)
•
Position molding as shown in Figure S.
•
All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence and bottom of the molding
against the base.
Inside corner
1. Miter left 45°
Left side
2. Save left side of cut
1. Miter right 45°
Right side
2. Save right side of cut
Material up to 3-5/8" (91 mm) can be cut as described above. For boards [up to 140 mm (5-1/2")]
several minor concessions must be made:
When cutting a board between 3-5/8" (91 mm) and 5-1/2" (140 mm), the roller on the tip of the
guard will hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the upper
side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in Figure L.
Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the guard and it will continue to open as
the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding 3-5/8" (91 mm) standing vertically against
the fence as in Figure S, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1" (25,4 mm) from the
end of the board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw's gear case to interfere with
the workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 3-5/8" (91 mm) and 5-1/2" (140 mm)
vertically follow the directions on this page.
Cutting Base Molding up to 1" (25,4 mm) Thick by 3-5/8"–5-1/2"
(91 mm–140 mm) Wide Vertically Against the Fence
•
Position molding as shown in Figure S.
•
All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
Inside corner
1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
Left side*
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding resting on the base of the saw
Right side
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save right side of cut
* NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" (25,4 mm) from the end of the molding: cut
off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25,4 mm) longer than your final length then make the miter cut as
described above.
Cutting Base Molding up to 1,8" (45 mm) Thick by up to 7-11/16"
(195,6 mm) Wide Laying Flat and Using the Bevel Feature
All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw.
Inside corner
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
Left side
2. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
Right side
2. Save right side of cut
outside corner
1. Miter right 45°
2. Save left side of cut
1. Miter left 45°
2. Save right side of cut
outside corner
1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save right side of cut
outside corner
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Cutting Crown Molding
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In order
to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together,
equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat
against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter detent points at 31,6° left and right for cutting crown
molding at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale at 33,9°.
The Bevel Setting/Type of Cut chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The
numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on
your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine tune your
settings anyway.
pRETEsTING WITH sCRap MaTERIal Is EX TREME lY IMpoRTaNT!
Instructions for Cutting Crown Molding Laying Flat and Using
the Compound Features (Fig. A, T)
1. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table (
Fig. T
2. The settings below are for All Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles.
BEVEl sETTING
lEFT sIDE, INsIDE CoRNER
1. Top of molding against fence
33.9°
2. Miter table set right 31.6°
3. Save left end of cut
RIGHT sIDE, INsIDE CoRNER
1. Bottom of molding against fence
33.9°
2. Miter table set left 31.6°
3. Save left end of cut
lEFT sIDE, oUTsIDE CoRNER
1. Bottom of molding against fence
33.9°
2. Miter table set left 31.6°
3. Save right end of cut
RIGHT sIDE, oUTsIDE CoRNER
1. Top of molding against fence
33.9°
2. Miter table set right 31.6°
3. Save right end of cut
When setting bevel and miter angles for all compound miters, remember that:
The angles presented for crown moldings are very precise and difficult to set exactly. Since they
can easily shift slightly and very few rooms have exactly square corners, all settings should be
tested on scrap molding.
pRETEsTING WITH sCRap MaTERIal Is EXTREME lY IMpoRTaNT!
Alternative Method for Cutting Crown Molding (Fig. U)
Place the molding on the table at an angle between the fence
shown in Figure U. Use of the crown molding fence accessory (DW7084) is highly recommended
because of its degree of accuracy and convenience. The crown molding fence accessory is
available at extra cost from your local dealer.
The advantage to cutting crown molding using this method is that no bevel cut is required.
Minute changes in the miter angle can be made without affecting the bevel angle. This way,
when corners other than 90° are encountered, the saw can be quickly and easily adjusted for
them. Use the crown molding fence accessory (DW7084) to maintain the angle at which the
molding will be on the wall.
ENGlIsH
34
(Fig. T).
10
34
TYpE oF CUT
10
and the saw table
34
, as
35
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