Salewa Ergo Belay Manual De Instrucciones página 5

ENGLISh
5
A GENERAL
Please read these instructions thoroughly
before using this product and follow all the
information contained within. Failure to observe
these instructions can lead to a reduction in the
protection this product provides.
Please note: mountain climbing and indoor
climbing are high-risk sports which can involve
unforeseeable dangers. Your decisions and
activities in this sport are your own responsi-
bility. Please familiarise yourself with all asso-
ciated risks before attempting climbing of any
sort. SALEWA recommends that before attempt-
ing any climbing, you should obtain training
and advice from suitably qualified persons (for
example mountain guides or climbing teachers).
In addition it is the user's responsibility to keep
himself or herself informed of the correct tech-
niques for carrying out safe rescue operations.
The manufacturer bears no liability in the case
of any misuse or abuse of this product. Also
check for the appropriate certification of all
other pieces of equipment.
B INStRuctIONS FOR uSE
WARNING: DMisuse of this tool can lead to sever
injury, falls and even death. You must be aware
of this and should only use this tool if you mas-
ter its correct use.
The proper use and its possible misuses will be
described in the ILLUSTRATIONS.
WARNING: We have not shown all possible
misuses.
Carefully read the instructions for use and
follow the sequence of movements correctly.
Watch the online video tutorial at www.salewa.
com It is essential to be taught the proper belay
techniques by a professional.
This belay device complies with the European
Norm EN 15151-2 „Typ 2 Belay appliances and
abseil without setting friction in motion" and has
been developed as a belay device for climbers.
It is intended to belay sport climbers while they
lead and top rope a route.
The HMS-Belay Twist Lock carabiner was devel-
oped especially for use with the Ergo Belay
System and complies to the EN 12275 norm. Do
not use the clove hitch knot to belay with this
carabiner.
1. PRODuct OVERVIEW
A) load rope, B) Emergency-braking-area, C) back
part, D) anti-locking part, E) shutter, F) Salewa
HMS Belay Twist Lock belay carabiner, G) guid-
ing slot for carabiner, H) brake stud, I) Nose, J)
braking side of the rope
2. PREPARAtION
2.1. Make sure that only compatible and certi-
fied components are used in the belaying chain.
The Ergo Belay Device must only be used with
the belay carabiner SALEWA HMS Belay Twist
Lock with anti-locking device. Using a differ-
ent type of carabiner can lead to failure of its
functions.
WARNING! Certain carabiners may lead to a
malfunction of this device: You must not use
the „DMM Belay Master" carabiner, under any
circumstances, or any carabiner of similar man-
ufacture.
Ergo Belay System
2.2. The Ergo Belay System can be used with
single dynamic ropes (complying with CE EN
892) with a diameter between 8,6 and 11,0 mm.
The ideal function is guaranteed between 9,0
and 10,5 mm. Please note that the diameter of
commercial ropes may command an acceptable
discrepancy of up to 0.2 mm
2.3. The rope has to be inserted into the device
as illustrated in the image. The load and break-
ing rope must be in the correct position, as
illustrated in the image and in the figure on the
device. Thread the Salewa HMS Belay Twist Lock
through the inserting slot of the Ergo BS and
also through the passing rope loop and subse-
quently hang the carabiner in the belay loop of
your harness. Attach it to the anti-locking device
of the carabiner. Make sure that the twist of the
carabiner is fully closed.
3. PARtNER chEcK
Both rope partners – the belayer and the climber
- have to double-check that the climber is prop-
erly tied in and the rope is correctly inserted into
the belay device (blocking test). Furthermore,
the carabiner holding the belay device will
have to be properly closed and attached to the
harness of the belayer. The correct buckling
and fastening of both harnesses will also be
checked, and a knot will be tied to the end of
the rope.
4. BRAKING FuNctION tESt
IMPORtANt: Make sure that the blocking func-
tion works by putting a heavy strain on the load
rope.
To guarantee the proper braking function, the
device must be attached to the carabiner so that
it can freely tip downwards, and nothing must
be in the way of this movement. The rope will
then be pinched between the belay carabiner
and the braking stud.
The blocking and braking function can vary
according to the rope used, and depends,
among other things, on the rope diameter, its
rigidity, the surface condition and the coating of
the rope. Humidity and wear can also play a part.
Any person using this belay device must be
familiar with its braking functions before use.
5. PRINcIPAL BELAYING POSItION
The brake hand grips the braking side of the
rope directly underneath the device, with the
nose of the device remaining in a free position.
The leading hand pulls the load rope.
WARNING: thE BRAKE hAND ALWAYS hOLDS
AND cONtROLS thE BRAKING SIDE OF thE
ROPE (the free side of the rope), regardless of its
effective function (give slack, retrieve the rope,
arrest a fall, block, release) – after every function
has been completed, It hAS tO REtuRN tO thE
PRINcIPAL BELAYING POSItION.
Holding the nose steadily obstructs the blocking
function and can therefore lead to a fall.
WARNING: This device must not be used to
belay a climber directly from above. If used from
above, the braking and blocking function are
invalidated. In this case, make sure that the rope
above the device is redirected to the climber.
6. GIVING SLAcK
To give out slack, the pulling hand tugs the
load rope from the device. At the same time,
the thumb of the brake hand lifts the device
on its nose. During this operation, the brake
hand holds the breaking side of the rope for
the whole time. After having given slack, the
brake hand returns immediately to the principal
belaying position, along the rope, and does not
touch the rope any longer. (Point 5)
WARNING: Do not leave the braking side of the
rope with the brake hand, at any point.
7. tAKING IN SLAcK
The braking hand pulls the braking side of
the rope forward at a maximum angle of 40°,
towards a horizontal position – over the device,
while the other hand pushes the load rope from
above into the device. Subsequently, the brake
hand moves below along the rope, back in the
principal belaying position (Point 5)
WARNING: you are advised not to pull the
braking side of the rope at a steep angle, as the
blocking function will not be activated, if the
climber falls at this moment and the brake hand
is not brought back below.
8. ARREStING A FALL
Hold the braking side of the rope with the brake
hand tight underneath the device in the princi-
pal belaying position (Point 5), while the other
hand is casually open around the load rope.
WARNING: It is imperative that the brake hand
holds the braking side of the rope tight (brake
hand principle). Failure to do so may lead to a
fall.
9. LOWERING thE cLIMBER
To release, the thumb of the other hand holds
the device on the back and makes a controlled
press forward, while the forehand gently pushes
the nose upwards. The brake hand holds the
braking side of the rope and releases it slowly,
with a controlled move, sliding from top to bot-
tom in the device.
The lowering speed is controlled by the inter-
action between the brake hand and the other
hand. The feeding hand releases the blocking
on the back, while the brake hand controls the
braking operation. Do not pull the device back-
wards, as this intensifies the release.
WARNING: The release must be learnt properly
and then practiced, for it is imperative that the
interplay between the brake hand and the other
hand is flawless.
In case of big friction, push the device further
forward-above.
In case of thin or wet ropes, which may have
blocked the device, loosen it with some move-
ments of the other hand.
WARNING: Do not use the function of giving out
rope. It prevents a controlled release and may
lead to a fall.
10. MISuSE:
· The rope has been wrongly inserted in the device.
· Although the rope has been inserted correctly, the
device has been wrongly attached to the carabiner.
· The rope has been wrongly inserted in the
device and the device has been has been wrongly
attached to the carabiner.