Petzl REVERSO Manual Del Usuario página 3

(EN) ENGLISH
Nomenclature of parts
(1) retainer, (2) attachment point,
(3) housing, (4) braking surface
Checking, points to verify
Before use, check the body of the REVERSO. If there is
any doubt about the condition of the device, return it to
PETZL for inspection.
Instructions for use
The REVERSO is a belay device for the leader or second,
for use with double dynamic ropes (2 x 1/2 ropes) or
EN 892 dynamic single rope. Twin ropes must not be
used, their diameter is too small for the REVERSO. Use
the REVERSINO with twin ropes.The REVERSO has
an attachment ring for fi xing directly to the belay. This
ring allows use in self-locking mode for belaying one
or two seconds. The REVERSO can also be used as a
descender for rappelling. The REVERSO was designed
primarily for use with double ropes.
(*) The term "rope*" refers to either one or two strands
of rope, depending on whether one or two slots of the
REVERSO are used.
Diagram 1 : Installation
- Clip the retainer with a locking HMS type carabiner.
- Attach the carabiner to the belay loop of the harness.
- Insert one or two loops of rope* through the slot(s)
formed by the housing of the REVERSO,
- Clip the carabiner through the loops(s),
- Lock the carabiner.
Diagram 2 : Belaying the leader
The belayer must be securely anchored before belaying
a partner. It is important to place a directional anchor for
the leader's rope*.
- Giving slack. The hand on the free end of rope* pushes
upwards, forming a loop. The hand on the active rope*
is used to pull through rope* as necessary.
- Taking up slack. Use the hand on the free end of the
rope* to take up slack.
- Arresting a fall. Hold the free end of the rope* fi rmly,
keeping the hand low. Before use, take time to test the
REVERSO in a safe environment with your rope* to get
a feel for how much force it is necessary to exert on
the rope* in order to arrest a fall. The use of gloves is
recommended.
Diagram 3 : Belaying the second
Do not proceed until you are securely attached to the
belay.
3A. Belaying the second without the self-locking
feature : install the rope* in the REVERSO as shown
in diagram 1. The second's rope* must be redirected
through the belay. Use this technique to belay a second
when it may be necessary to give slack (on a traverse,
for example).
3B. Belaying the second in self-locking mode : using
the attachment point (2), attach the REVERSO to the
belay with a locking carabiner. Insert one or two loop(s)
of the rope* into the slot(s) formed by the body of
the REVERSO (the active end of the rope* positioned
above the free end). Clip the loop(s) of rope* and the
retainer (1) with a locking HMS carabiner, and lock the
carabiner. Verify that the rope* is properly installed by
pulling on the active (climber's) end ; the rope should
jam in the REVERSO. With both hands, slide the rope*
smoothly through the system. If the second falls, the
system jams the rope* and arrests the fall. It is very
important to always hold the free end of the rope*. The
device must be able to operate freely at all times. Its
operation must never be impeded by contact with the
cliff or other obstacle. Warning : it is not possible to give
slack with the rope under tension. A good knowledge of
mechanical advantage techniques is required to unlock
the system (see www.petzl.com).
4
Notice REVERSO D15 réf. : D15500-C
Diagram 4 : Using the self-locking mode to
belay two seconds climbing together
WARNING when belaying 2 seconds climbing together :
- Preferably use a rope certifi ed as single rope for each
second.
- You may use one strand of rope certifi ed as double
rope for each second.
But there is more risk of cutting the rope on a sharp
edge.
- It is absolutely forbidden to use one strand of a twin
rope.
Warning : when belaying two seconds, if one of the
two seconds is hanging on the rope, it is necessary to
pay close attention to the rope on which the other is
climbing (4A).
Small rope diameters (8 mm to 8,5 mm), the condition
of the sheath (new, dry fi nish, wet, icy) and the position
of the carabiner (4B) can disable the self-locking
function. Taking up slack steadily, ensuring that the
carabiner remains correctly positioned and fi rmly
gripping the two ends of rope help to reduce the risk.
Diagram 5 : Switching leads
When the second arrives, he attaches himself securely
to the belay. The belayer moves the REVERSO from the
belay to his harness (set up as in diagram 1). In this
manner, the second becomes the leader. It is important
to run the leader's rope through a directional anchor.
Diagram 6 : Rappelling
Install the two ends of the rope in the REVERSO as
shown in diagram 1. Depending on your weight and the
diameter of the rope, apply more or less braking force.
A second carabiner may also be used. Use a backup
system (Shunt or Prusik). Tighten your grip on the free
ends of the rope to slow the descent.
Diagram 7 : Occasional rope climbing
Install the REVERSO in self-locking mode as indicated
in diagram 7.