1.
Draw a cutting line. Place
the front of the shoe on the
edge of the workpiece
without making blade con-
tact. Hold the trigger handle
with one hand and the front
handle with the other
(Fig. 6).
2.
Line up the sight line with
your cutting line. Position
your arms and body to re-
sist KICKBACK.
This tool is intended for cutting unhardened ferrous metal and non-
ferrous metal. Refer to the "Accessories" section for a list of blades to
be used for the proper applications of this tool. The following precau-
tions must be followed to reduce the risk of injury:
•
Do not cut stacked materials. Cut one piece at a time.
•
Do not cut hardened steel.
•
Cut materials with the wider edge of the shoe over the clamped side
of the material.
•
Do not touch the blade, workpiece, chips, or chip container with
bare hands immediately after cutting; they may be hot and could
burn skin.
Cutting Materials Thicker than 1/4" (3/4" Maximum Thickness)
To reduce the risk of damage to the tool or blade, do not
exceed the Feed Rate and Maximum Cut Time for materials
thicker than 1/4", as charted below.
Between Maximum Cut Times, allow the tool to cool down
for 60 minutes in still air or 6 minutes of running with no load.
Cutting too fast or too long in heavy material will damage the
tool if the tool is not allowed to cool.
Cutting too slow will cause excessive wear on the blade.
When cutting materials over 1/4", certain guidelines must be followed to
avoid serious damage to the tool and/or blade. The correct combination
of the following factors will allow for a sucessful cut through thicker
materials:
1.
Material Thickness (do not cut materials thicker than 3/4")
NOTE: If the material thickness is not shown in the chart below,
round up to the nearest thickness listed in the chart and follow those
guidelines.
2.
Maximum Length of Cut (the length of material in inches through
which the saw moves between cool down periods)
3.
Feed Rate (the speed at which the saw moves through the material
in seconds per inch)
4.
Maximum Cutting Time (the total amount of time that the saw can
be under load between cool down periods.
5.
Cool Down Period (60 minutes at rest or 6 minutes running with no load)
Maximum
Material
Cutting Time
Length
Thickness
(seconds)
3/8"
30 - 45
1/2"
18 - 36
5/8"
18 - 30
3/4"
20 - 25
page 8
Fig. 6
CAUTION!
Max
Cool Down
Feed Rate
of Cut
(sec./inch)
Period
15"
2 - 3
60 min. at rest or
9"
2 - 4
6 min. running
with no load
6"
3 - 5
5"
4 - 5
3.
Pull the trigger and allow the motor to reach full speed before begin-
ning cut.
4.
While cutting, keep the shoe flat against the workpiece and maintain
a firm grip. Do not force the saw through the workpiece. Forcing a
saw can cause KICKBACK. Use a light, continuous pressure to
make the cut while following the cut line through the sight line.
5.
If making a partial cut, restarting in mid-cut or correcting direction,
allow the blade to come to a complete stop. To resume cutting,
center the blade in the kerf, back the saw away from cutting edge a
few inches, pull the trigger and re-enter the cut slowly.
6.
If the saw binds and stalls, maintain a firm grip and release the
trigger immediately. Hold the saw motionless in the workpiece until
the blade comes to a complete stop.
7.
After finishing a cut, be sure the lower guard closes and the blade
comes to a complete stop before setting the saw down.
APPLICATIONS
Cutting Thin or Corrugated Materials
Cut thin and corrugated materials at least 1" from the edge of the work-
piece to avoid injury or damage to the tool caused by thin strips of metal
being pulled into the upper guard.
Cutting Large Sheets
Large sheets sag or bend if they are not correctly supported. If you
attempt to cut without leveling and properly supporting the workpiece,
the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK.
Support large sheets. Be sure to set the depth of the cut so that you only
cut through the workpiece, not through the supports.
When cutting widths greater than 4", clamp 1" lumber to workpiece and
use the inside edge of the shoe as a guide.
Pocket Cutting (Fig. 7)
To reduce the risk of electric shock, check work
area for hidden pipes and wires before making
pocket cuts.
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece when it can not be
cut from an edge. We recommend using a Sawzall
jig saw for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circular saw to
make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAUTION. To maintain control of the
saw during pocket cutting, keep both hands on the saw (Fig. 7).
1.
Beginning at a corner, line
up the sight line with your
cutting line. Tilt the saw for-
ward, firmly fixing the front
of the shoe on the work-
piece. The blade should be
just above cutting line, but
not touching it. Raise the
lower guard using the lower
guard lever.
2.
Pull the trigger and allow the
motor to reach full speed
before beginning cut. Using
the front of the shoe as a
hinge point, gradually lower
the back end of the saw into
the workpiece. Release the
lower guard lever.
3.
When the shoe rests flat against workpiece, advance the saw to
the far corner. Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing it from workpiece. Repeat the above
steps for each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall
saw, jig saw or small hand saw to finish the corners if they are not
completely cut through.
WARNING!
®
reciprocating saw or
Fig. 7
®
reciprocating