Multiplex EasyGlider PRO Instrucciones De Montaje página 15

27. Gilding the lily - applying the decals
The kit is supplied with a multi-colour decal sheet, part 2. Cut out
the individual name placards and emblems and apply them to the
model in the positions shown in the kit box illustration, or in another
arrangement which you find pleasing.
28. Balancing the model
Like every other aircraft, your EasyGlider PRO must be balanced
at a particular point if it is to fly efficiently and stably. Assemble
the model completely, ready to fly. Corrections are possible by
altering the position of the receiver battery or the flight pack. If
this is still not sufficient, add nose ballast or tail ballast until the
model balances at the stated point.
The Centre of Gravity should be at a point 70 mm back from the
leading edge of the wing, measured where the wings meet the
fuselage. Mark this point on the underside of the wing roots with
a waterproof felt-tip pen. Support the model at the marked points
on two fingertips, and the aeroplane should balance level. Make
any adjustments required, and mark the location of the airborne
components once you have found the correct position in the
fuselage, so that you can be sure always to replace the battery in
the same position.
Fig. 30
29. Preparing for the first flight
For the first flight wait for a day with as little breeze as possible.
The early evening is often a good time.
If this is your first model aircraft, your next step is to ask an
experienced model pilot to help you, as things usually do not go
well if you try to manage on your own. Your local model flying club
should be able to help you find someone, or - failing that - your
nearest model shop may be able to assist you. Our flight simulator
for the PC can also provide valuable experience prior to your
"first real steps" in model flying.
You can download the simulator at no charge from our website
www.multiplex-rc.de. You will also need the matching interface
cable for your MPX transmitter; this is available from model shops
under Order No. # 8 5153.Be sure to carry out a range check
before the first flight.
Just before the flight, charge up the transmitter battery and the
flight pack (or receiver battery) using the recommended
procedures. Ensure that "your" channel is not already in use before
you switch on the transmitter.
Ask your assistant to walk away from the model, holding the
transmitter. The aerial should be fitted but completely collapsed.
Your assistant should operate one of the functions constantly while
you watch the servos. The non-controlled servo should stay
motionless up to a range of about 60 m, and the controlled one
should follow the stick movements smoothly and without any delay.
Please note that this check can only give reliable results if the
radio band is clear of interference, and if no other radio control
transmitters are in use - even on different channels. If the range
check is successful, repeat it with the motor running (EasyGlider
Electric only). There should be no more than a very slight reduction
in effective radio range with the motor turning.
If you are not sure about anything, please don't risk a flight. Send
the whole system (including battery, switch harness and servos)
to the Service Department of your RC system manufacturer and
ask them to check it.
The first flight ...
Glider:
A test-glide from shoulder level, directly into wind, will give you an
approximate idea of the model's "trim", i.e. whether it is set up
correctly, or whether the control surfaces or transmitter trims need
to be adjusted. If the model swings away to one side, move the
rudder trim slightly in the opposite direction. If the model banks -
one wing lower than the other - apply slight aileron trim correction.
Hand-towing
This is the classic method of launching a glider to height. Attached
to a suitable length of towline, the model is pulled up by your
assistant running into wind; the glider will rise up the line in a
similar fashion to a kite. The towline first needs to be prepared as
follows: tie the towring and a pennant to the "model" end of the
line. The ring is engaged on the towhook 32, the towline unwound
and your assistant (launcher) takes the free end and walks upwind
until the line is taut. The model should be held under gentle tension
before it is released. The launcher watches the model (over his
shoulder), adjusting his pace to maintain a steady rate of climb.
Take care not to overstress the model during the launch; this is a
particular danger in a fairly strong wind.
Bungee launching
This is the easiest method of launching a glider of this size, as no
assistant is needed, and launch heights of around 100 m are
easily achieved. From this altitude quite long flying times can be
achieved, and they will be even longer if you manage to contact a
thermal, although this does depend on the prevailing weather.
Thermal flying
Making the best use of flat field thermals is not particularly easy,
and calls for considerable skill and experience. Areas of rising air
are harder to detect and recognise at a flat field, because they
tend to occur at higher altitude than at the hillside, where it is
often possible to find lift while the model is cruising along the
edge of the slope and then circle away in it. A thermal at a flat
field which occurs directly overhead is very hard to recognise,
and to exploit it to the full requires a highly skilled pilot. For this
reason it is always best to go thermal seeking off to one side of
where you are standing.
You will recognise thermal contact by the glider's behaviour. Good
thermals are obvious because the model will climb strongly, but
weak thermals take a practised eye to detect, and you will need a
lot of skill to make use of them. With a little practice you will be
able to recognise likely trigger points for thermals in the local
landscape. The ground warms up in the sun's heat, but heat
absorption varies according to the type of terrain and the angle of
the sun's rays. The air over the warmer ground becomes warmer
in turn, and the mass of warm air flows along close to the ground,
driven by the breeze. Strong winds usually prevent thermal build-
up. Any obstruction - a shrub or tree, a fence, the edge of a wood,
a hill, a passing car, even your own model on the landing approach
- may cause this warm air to leave the ground and rise. Imagine a
drop of water on the ceiling, wandering around aimlessly, and
initially staying stuck to the ceiling. If it strikes an obstruction it will
fall on your head. A triggered thermal can be thought of as the
opposite of the drop of water.
The most obvious thermal triggers include sharply defined snow
fields on mountain slopes. The air above the snow field is cooled,
and flows downhill; at the edge of the snow field, part-way down
the valley, the cool air meets warm air flowing gently uphill, and
pushes it up and away as if cut off by a knife. The result is an
extremely powerful but bumpy thermal bubble. Your task is to
locate the rising warm air and centre your model in it. You will
need to control the glider constantly to keep it centred, as you
can expect the most rapid climb rate in the core of the thermal.
Once again, this technique does demand some skill.
To avoid losing sight of the machine be sure to leave the thermal
in good time. Remember that a glider is always easier to see
under a cloud than against a clear blue sky. If you have to lose
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