TROUBLESHOOTING
IMPACT WRENCHES
TOOL DOES NOT RUN OR RUNS SLOWLY,
AND/OR AIR FLOWS ONLY SLIGHTLY
FROM EXHAUST — This condition is
probably caused by insufficient air pressure,
contaminants blocking the airflow or
operation of motor parts, or a power regulator
which has vibrated to a closed position.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air supply for
sufficient pressure. Check the air inlet
strainer for blockage. Pour a generous
amount of air tool oil into air inlet. Operate
tool in short bursts, in both forward and
reverse directions. Repeat if necessary. If
tool performance does not improve, the tool
should be serviced by an authorized service
center.
TOOL WILL NOT RUN, EXHAUST
AIR FLOWS FREELY. This condition is
probably caused by one or more rotor vanes
stuck on ac cu mu la ted sludge or varnish;
motor rusted.
YOU SHOULD: Pour a generous amount of
air tool oil into air inlet. Operate tool in short
bursts in both forward and reverse directions.
Lightly tap the motor housing with a plastic
mallet. Detach the air supply. Try to free the
motor by turning the drive shaft manually,
if possible. If the tool remains jammed, it
should be serviced by an authorized service
center.
SOCKETS WILL NOT STAY ON. This
condition is probably caused by a worn
socket retainer ring or a soft backup o-ring
YOU SHOULD: Wear safety goggles. Detach
the air supply. Using external retaining ring
pliers, remove the old retaining ring. While
holding the square drive with an appropriate
wrench, use a small screwdriver to pry old
retainer ring out of its groove. Always pry the
ring away from your body, because it can be
propelled outward at high velocity. Replace
the backup o-ring and retainer ring with
correct new parts (see breakdown). Place
the retaining ring on a table and press the
tool anvil into the ring with a rocking motion.
Snap the ring into the groove by hand.
PREMATURE ANVIL WEAR. This is probably
cased by using chromed sockets, which are
not designed for use with impact tools, or
worn sockets
YOU SHOULD: Stop using chrome sockets.
Chrome sockets have a hard exterior surface
and a soft core, which leads to a warped
but very hard drive hole when used with
impact tools. Chrome sockets will wear
wrench anvils quickly and present a danger of
splitting or breakage which can lead to injury
or death.
TOOL SLOWLY LOSES POWER BUT RUNS
AT FULL SPEED WHEN NOT UNDER
LOAD. This condition is probably caused by
worn clutch parts, inadequate lubrication, or
worn engaging cam.
YOU SHOULD: FOR OIL LUBED
WRENCHES: Check for presence of clutch
oil (where oil is specified for the clutch) and
remove oil fill plug. Tilt to drain all of the oil
from the clutch case. Refill the case with
PLEASE REVIEW ALL WARNING INSTRUCTIONS PRIOR TO OPERATION. SAVE THIS MAN U AL FOR FUTURE REF ER ENCE.
6-1132
NAPA air tool oil or that recommended by the
manufacturer in the specified amount. Also
check for excess clutch oil. Clutch cases
only need to be filled 50%, and overfilling
can cause drag on high speed clutch
parts. A typical 1/2" Drive oil lubed wrench
only requires 1/2 ounce of clutch oil. FOR
GREASE LUBED WRENCHES: Check
for excess grease by rotating drive shaft by
hand. It should rotate freely, and excess
grease is usually expelled automatically.
TOOL WILL NOT SHUT OFF. This condition
is probably cause by a broken or maligned
throttle valve O-ring, or a bent or jammed
throttle valve stem.
YOU SHOULD: Remove the throttle
assembly and install a new o-ring. Lubricate
the assembly with air tool oil and operate
the trigger briskly. If operation cannot be
restored, the tool should be serviced at an
authorized service center.
AIR RATCHETS
MOTOR RUNS. SPINDLE DOESN'T TURN,
OR TURNS ERRATICALLY —This condition
is probably caused by worn teeth on the
ratchet or pawl, a broken or weak pawl
pressure spring, or weak drag springs
which fail to hold the spindle while the
pawl advances.
YOU SHOULD: Have replacement parts
installed by an authorized service center.
TOOL DOESN'T RUN, RATCHET HEAD
INDEXES CRISPLY BY HAND— This
condition is probably caused by the
accumulation of dirt or sludge in motor parts.
YOU SHOULD: Pour a generous amount
of air tool oil into the air inlet. Operate the
throttle in short bursts. With the tool engaged
on a bolt, alternately tighten and loosen the
bolt by hand. If the tool remains jammed, it
should be serviced at an authorized service
center
AIR DRILLS
TOOL WILL NOT RUN, RUNS SLOWLY,
AIR FLOWS SLIGHTLY FROM EXHAUST,
SPINDLE TURNS FREELY — This condition
is probably caused by a blocked air passage
or jammed motor parts.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air inlet for
blockages. Pour a generous amount of
air tool oil into air inlet. Operate the trigger
in short bursts. Detach the air supply.
Turn the empty and closed drill chuck by
hand. Reconnect air supply. If the tool's
performance does not improve, it should be
serviced by an authorized service center.
TOOL WILL NOT RUN. AIR FLOWS FREELY
FROM EXHAUST. SPINDLE TURNS
FREELY. This condition is prob a bly caused
by a broken rotor vane or jammed or broken
gears.
YOU SHOULD: Pour a generous amount of
air tool oil into air inlet. Operate the trigger
in short bursts. Detach the air supply.
Turn the empty and closed drill chuck by
hand. Reconnect air supply. If the tool's
performance does not improve, it should be
serviced by an authorized service center.
6
TOOL SEIZED. SPINDLE WILL NOT
TURN — This condition is probably caused
by a broken rotor vane or jammed or broken
gears.
YOU SHOULD: Have the tool serviced by an
authorized service center.
TOOL WILL NOT SHUT OFF — The throttle
valve o-ring has probably come unseated.
YOU SHOULD: Replace the o-ring (see
breakdown) or have tool serviced by an
authorized service center.
AIR HAMMERS
TOOL WILL NOT RUN — This condition is
probably caused by a clogged cycling valve
or throttle valve.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air inlet for
blockages. Pour a generous amount of
air tool oil into air inlet. Operate the trigger
in short bursts with the chisel in place and
against a solid surface. Detach the air
supply. Tap the nose or barrel lightly with a
plastic mallet, reconnect the air supply, and
repeat above steps. If the tool is still seized,
insert a 6" piece of 1/8" diameter rod in the
nozzle and lightly tap to loosen the piston in
the rear direction. Reconnect air supply and
repeat above steps.
CHISEL STUCK IN NOZZLE— This
condition is probably caused by a deformed
shank.
YOU SHOULD: Have tool serviced by an
authorized service center.
NOTE: DISASSEMBLY OF THIS TOOL
BY ANY OTHER THAN AN AUTHORIZED
SERVICE CENTER WILL VOID THE
WARRANTY ON THIS TOOL.
SANDERS/GRINDERS
TOOL HAS NO POWER OR RUNS
SLOWLY.
This condition is probably caused
by insufficient air pressure, contaminants
blocking the air flow, or speed regulator that
has vibrated to a closed or off position.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air supply at
the compressor and air lines to the tool for
sufficient air pressure. Check the air inlet
strainer for blockage and make sure speed
regulator is in the open or on position. If
power is not restored the tool should be
serviced by an authorized service center.
TOOL SEIZED. PAD/SPINDLE WILL NOT
TURN. This condition is probably caused
by a broken rotor vane, jammed or broken
gears, or seized bearing.
YOU SHOULD: Have the tool repaired by an
authorized service center.
TOOL WILL NOT SHUT OFF/RUNS
CONTINUOUSLY. The throttle valve seat has
become loose or damaged.
YOU SHOULD: Replace o-ring or valve seat
(see breakdown for proper parts) or have tool
serviced by an authorized service center.
Rev. 08/06/18