Bevel Cuts; Quality Of Cut; Body And Hand Position; Clamping The Workpiece - DeWalt DW715 Manual De Instrucciones

When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let
the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle
other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for making
corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50 degrees
left or right. After selecting the desired miter angle, be sure
to lock miter lock lever. Make the cut as described above.

BEVEL CUTS

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a
bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the
bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired.
(It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance).
Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the
bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 48 degrees right to
48 degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set
between zero and 50 degrees right or left. At some
extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to
be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the
knobs several turns and slide the fence out.

QUALITY OF CUT

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of vari-
ables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade
sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of
the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other
precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a
slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the work-
piece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the
cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully
remove tape when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recom-
mended saw blades for your saw and select the one that
best fits your needs (page 4).
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 11)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating
the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and
safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands
no closer than 6" from the blade. Hold the workpiece tight-
ly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in
position until the trigger has been released and the blade
has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT
CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 11A.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper bal-
ance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through
the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
FIG. 11
PROPER CUT
FIG. 11A
IMPROPER CUT
9

CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE

Turn Off and Unplug Saw.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and
against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your
hand would be less than 6" from the blade, a clamp or
other fixture must be used.
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with
your saw. It is available for purchase at your local retailer
or D WALT service center.
E
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of
material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps.
Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left
or right fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.
NOTE: ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED)
BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE
BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE
WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and
secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut
is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or
anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or work-
bench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced,
properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface.

SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES

Turn Off and Unplug Saw.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table
extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is
longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help
feed, support or pull the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support
to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your
dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap
wood until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one
shown in Figure 13. Sketch A in Figure 12 shows a joint
made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of
the two boards at 45 degrees each to produce a 90 degree
corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the
zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at
45 degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat
side against the table and the narrow edge against the
fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left
with the broad surface against the fence.