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2. Use sharp drill bits only. For WOOD, use the low speed setting and
twist drill bits, spade bits, power auger bits, or hole saws. For METAL,
use the low speed setting and steel twist drill bits or hole saws. For
MASONRY, such as brick, cement, cinder block, etc., use high speed
setting and carbide-tipped bits rated for percussion drilling.
3. Be sure the material to be drilled is anchored or clamped firmly. If
drilling thin material, use a wood "back-up" block to prevent damage
to the material.
4. Always apply pressure in a straight line with the bit. Use enough
pressure to keep drill biting, but do not push hard enough to stall the
motor or deflect the bit.
5. Hold tool firmly to control the twisting action of the drill.
6. IF DRILL STALLS, it is usually because it is being overloaded or
improperly used. RELEASE TRIGGER IMMEDIATELY, remove drill
bit from work, and determine cause of stalling. DO NOT CLICK
TRIGGER OFF AND ON IN AN ATTEMPT TO START A STALLED
DRILL — THIS CAN DAMAGE THE DRILL.
7. To minimize stalling or breaking through the material, reduce
pressure on drill and ease the bit through the last fractional part of
the hole.
8. Keep the motor running when pulling the bit back out of a drilled
hole. This will help prevent jamming.
9. With variable speed drills there is no need to center punch the point
to be drilled. Use a slow speed to start the hole and accelerate by
squeezing the trigger harder when the hole is deep enough to drill
without the bit skipping out.
DRILLING IN METAL
USE ONLY in the "low speed" gear range. Start drilling with slow speed
and increase to full power while applying firm pressure on the tool. A
smooth even flow of metal chips indicates the proper drilling rate. Use
a cutting lubricant when drilling metals. The exceptions are cast iron
and brass which should be drilled dry.
NOTE: Large (5/16" to 1/2") holes in steel can be made easier if a
pilot hole (5/32" to 3/16") is drilled first.
DRILLING IN WOOD
USE ONLY in the "low speed" gear range. Start drilling with slow speed
and increase to full power while applying firm pressure on the tool.
Holes in wood can be made with the same twist drills used for metal.
These bits may overheat unless pulled out frequently to clear chips
from the flutes. Work that is apt to splinter should be backed up with a
block of wood.
DRILLING IN MASONRY
When drilling in masonry, use carbide tipped bits rated for percussion
drilling and be certain that the bit is sharp. Ensure that the hammer mode
is selected. Use a constant and firm force on the tool to drill most
effectively. A smooth, even flow of dust indicates the proper drilling rate.
Keyless Chuck
Open chuck jaws by turning the collar
with your fingers and inserting the shank
of the bit about 3/4" (19 mm) into the
chuck. Tighten the collar clockwise
while depressing the spindle lock button
A (Fig. 4) on the right side of the tool
housing. To release a bit, turn the collar
counterclockwise while depressing the
spindle lock button.
CAUTION: Do not depress lock button while operating drill or while
the chuck is moving. Always lock off trigger switch when changing
accessories.
Chuck Removal
Always wear eye protection.
Slide the dual range gear button to position 1. Tighten the chuck
around the shorter end of a hex key (not supplied) of 1/4" or greater
size. Using a wooden mallet or similar object, strike the longer end in
the clockwise direction, as shown in FIG. 5. This will loosen the screw
inside the chuck.
Open chuck jaws fully, insert screwdriver (or Torx tool if required) into
front of chuck between jaws to engage screw head. Remove screw by
8
FIG. 4
A