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intense heat of the arc between the rod and grounded metal melts the wire and the flux.
The rod wire joins with the base metal of the workpiece to form the weld bead. Burning Flux forms a
gas shield around the arc, helping to control the flow of the fusing metals that form the weld bead.
Type and thickness of the metal and the position of the work piece determines the electrode type and the
amount of heat needed to weld (see diagram below). Heavier and thicker metals require more heat or
amperage.
Although there is no hard and fast rule that determines the exact rod or heat setting required for any
given situation,you can check the rod requirements by referring to the rod guide on your welder, then
experiment on scrap metal.
Striking the Arc
To strike an arc, bring the tip of the rod in contact with the workpiece surface
and quickly raise it until there is about 1/8 inch (3.2) gap between the rod
and workpiece. The easiest way to strike an arc is to scratch the tip of the rod
(for a short distance) on the workpiece surface (as you would strike a match),
then quickly lift it to the required 1/8 inch (3.2mm). It is important that the
gap be maintained during the welding process and that it be neither too wide
or too narrow. If the gap becomes too narrow, the electrode will freeze or stick
to the workpiece.
Striking a proper arc and maintaining the gap between the electrode and the
base metal takes practice. Knowing when the arc is just right is a matter of
experience. A good arc is accompanied by a crisp, cracking sound. To lay a
weld bead, only 2 positions are possible (see image):
1. Downward angle (work angle)
2. In the direction the weld is to be laid (travel angle)
Always watch the weld puddle to keep the slag from flowing in front of it to
prevent causing inclusions and gas pockets.
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