Support For Long Pieces - DeWalt DWS780 Manual De Instrucciones

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always
let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to saw Blades under Accessories.
Non-Through-Cutting (Grooving and Rabbeting)
Instructions in the Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts and Cutting Compound Miters sections are for cuts
made through the full thickness of the material. The saw can also perform non-through cuts to
form grooves or rabbets in the material.
Groove Cut (Fig. A)
Refer to Depth Stop for detailed instructions for setting depth of cut. A piece of scrap wood
should be used to verify the desired depth of cut.
Hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence
the blade. Position the saw arm fully forward, with blade in down position. Turn on the saw by
squeezing the trigger switch 1 shown in Figure A. Smoothly, push saw arm rearward to cut a
groove through the workpiece.
Release the trigger switch with the saw arm down. When saw blade has completely stopped,
raise the saw arm. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising the arm.
To widen the groove, repeat steps 1–4 until the desired width is obtained.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. A)

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable
surface. Personal injury may occur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the
clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part of
the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape,
etc.) or your hand would be less than 4" (100 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must
be used.
For best results use the vertical material clamp
clamps can be purchased at your local retailer or D
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes
and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry
run before making the cut. The left fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping
To Install Clamp (Fig. A)
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence
the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this
groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will
not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly
clamp the workpiece.
nOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE
CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.

Support for Long Pieces


WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull
the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to extend the table width of your saw,
available from your dealer at extra cost.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends from dropping.
. Align the cut area underneath
10
21 provided with your saw. Additional DW7082
WALT service center.
e
. The clamp should be facing toward the back of
10
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other Four-Sided
Projects (Fig. P, Q)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple
projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure P. Sketch 1 in
Figure Q shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards
at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position
and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side
against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering
right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
Fig. P
Cutting Trim Molding And Other Frames (Fig. Q)
Sketch 2 in Figure Q shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45º to miter the two boards
to form a 90º corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter
arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow
edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure Q are for four-sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the
proper angles for a variety of shapes.
– EXAMPLES –
NUMBER OF SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
use the following formula: 180º divided by the number of sides equals the miter (if the material is
cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).
Cutting Compound Miters (Fig. R)
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is
the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure R.
nOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel lock knob and the miter
lock handle are securely locked. These must be locked after making any changes in bevel
or miter.
The chart at the end of this manual (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle A
(Fig. R) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point
follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the
correct miter angle.
Fig. R
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces
together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a 4-sided box with 26º exterior angles (Angle A, Fig. R), use the upper right arc.
Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle
setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the
bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the
settings on the saw.
English
Fig. Q
1
2
1
MITER OR BEVEL ANGLE
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
Angle "A"
9