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The protractor should slide smoothly, without
sidewards play along the full length of the slot. If
this is not the case loosen the Philips-head screws
and adjust the width of the slot until the protractor
slider strip fits snugly, then re-tighten. If necessary
spray the slot with a spray lubricant, such as RP7
or WD40, to improve the protractor sliding action.
4. Awkward Workpieces (Fig. 5 & 6)
When bevelling short or awkward shaped pieces,
trim a batten out of 12mm (
within the recess running along the work panel.
Sandpaper attached to the face of the batten will
provide grip and support for the workpiece.
If bevelling small or awkward pieces on a regular
basis we suggest you construct a hold-down jig, as
shown in Fig. 6, for safer more accurate guidance
of the workpiece.
5. Chamfering (Fig. 7)
If you wish to chamfer an edge, rather than cut a
full bevel, unlock the Bevel Ripping Guide and
move it to the required position. Both ends must be
locked at the same selected scale reading.
6. Fine Work (Fig. 8)
To protect fragile work from splitting near the end of
the cut, move the front edge support closer to the
blade, as shown in Fig. 8. This will provide greater
infeed support. After any adjustment, make sure the
clamping screws are fully tightened. Note:
chamfers are not possible in this position.
7. Compound Mitres (Fig. 9)
Compound mitre joints require the use of a Series
2000 Workcentre protractor.
Due to the difficulty in calculating the true cutting
angles required for compound mitre joints, the chart
overleaf covers some common joints.
For joints not shown on this chart, equations are
provided overleaf for you to calculate the various
cutting angles, using a scientific calculator.
The scales on the Bevel Ripping Guide and the
protractor are calibrated in single degree
increments. While this is suitable for general work,
compound mitres require settings within the degree
increments. Carefully estimated fractions of a
degree will provide the required results.
Always practice the joints first using scrap
material.
Choose the shape you wish to build, (try the
triangle or square first - they're the easiest). Then
decide how steep a bevel angle you want, shown
as b
O
on the chart. (Shallow angles and narrow
boards result in picture frames or trays, larger
angles and wide boards result in planter boxes).
1
/
") material to fit flush
2
Step 1
Cut each of your workpieces to exactly the same
length in the tablesaw mode, and cut opposing
MITRE ANGLES (M
O
) at each end using the
Workcentre protractor. Use the outer scale of the
protractor (45-0-45), with the
indicating which side of "0" to set it.
(If you use the left table slot in tablesaw mode, the
protractor positions and settings are the same as
those shown in the protractor diagrams.)
Step 2
Fit the Bevel Ripping Guide and set it to the BEVEL
GUIDE ANGLE shown.
Re-cut all of your mitres on the Bevel Ripping
Guide using the protractor positions and settings
shown.
For other mitre and bevel angles, use the following
equations:
Equations:
M
O
= tan
B
O
= cos
M
O
= True mitre angle to be cut.
B
O
= True bevel angle, (BEVEL GUIDE ANGLE)
m
O
=
Corner half angle.
b
O
=
Side angle to the horizontal.
and
symbols
O
tan m
(
)
-1
cos b
O
sin m
O
(
)
-1
sin M
O
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