OPERATION
Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge
securely against the fence. If the board is warped, place
the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge
of a board is placed against the fence, the board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the
blade. See Figures 41 - 42.
When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, support
the opposite end of the stock with a roller stand or with
a work surface level with the saw table. See Figure 33.
Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw
blade.
Press the LED button to project the blade's shadow onto
the workpiece.
Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against
the fence. Use the work clamp or a C-clamp to secure
the workpiece when possible.
Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cut-
ting operation to make sure that no problems will occur
when the cut is made.
Grasp the saw handle firmly. Squeeze the switch trigger.
Allow several seconds for the blade to reach maximum
speed.
Slowly lower the blade into and through the workpiece.
Release the switch trigger and allow the saw blade to
stop rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece
and removing the workpiece from the miter table.
TO COMPOUND MITER CUT
See Figure 34.
A compound miter cut is a cut made using a miter angle and
a bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is used to
make picture frames, cut molding, make boxes with sloping
sides, and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the control arm on the miter table
must be rotated to the correct angle and the saw arm must
be tilted to the correct bevel angle. Care should always
be taken when making compound miter setups due to the
interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are interdependent
with one another. Each time you adjust the miter setting you
change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time you adjust
the bevel setting you change the effect of the miter setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The
first angle setting should be checked after setting the second
angle, since adjusting the second angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been
obtained, always make a test cut in scrap material before
making a finish cut in good material.
NOTE: It may be necessary to adjust or remove the sliding
miter fence to insure proper clearance prior to making the cut.
Slide the saw head to its most rearward position and
tighten the slide lock knob securely.
Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its full height.
C-CLAMP
Lift the miter lock lever and depress the detent release
button to release the miter table.
Rotate the control arm until the scale indicator aligns with
the desired angle on the miter scale.
Release the detent release button, then push the miter
lock lever down to secure the miter table.
Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the saw arm to the
desired left bevel angle.
NOTE: To obtain right bevel angles, pull the bevel stop
pin out and tilt the saw to the desired right bevel angle.
Left and right bevel angles can be set from 0° to 48°.
NOTE: Use the bevel stop turret to locate 33.9°, 45°, and
48° bevel angles. See Figure 33.
Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle,
securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
Recheck miter angle setting. Make a test cut in scrap
material.
Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge
securely against the fence. If the board is warped, place
the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge
of a board is placed against the fence, the board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the
blade. See Figures 41 - 42.
When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, support
the opposite end of the stock with a roller stand or with
a work surface level with the saw table. See Figure 35.
Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw
blade.
Press the LED button to project the blade's shadow onto
the workpiece.
24 - English
COMPOUND MITER CUT
Fig. 34