OcCre ULISES RC Instrucciones De Montaje página 6

PHOTOS 43 - 45: Start to line the decks using the deck planking sheets 50. First fit a section in place in the middle of the deck. And
then, on both sides, fit 70 mm lengths and then, next to these, fit another section covering the area up to the hatch. On both sides fit
more lengths, each as long as the one in the centre. Alternate these lengths so that the joints do not coincide with those of adjacent
pieces. Complete the rest using strips approximately 140 mm long. Use contact adhesive for these sheets. Find the bulwarks 51 & 52
and join them together to make a single part for each side of the hull.
PHOTO 46: Paint the bottom part of the bulwarks mat white and also paint the bulkheads 48 & 41. File down the edge of the deck so
that the bulwarks have a firm base. Adjust the length if necessary. Now glue the hatch coamings 53, 54 & 55 into the corresponding
locations.
PHOTO 47: Using a pencil mark out the planking on the decks. Draw lengthways lines and also mark out the simulated nails. Apply one
of more coats of pore-filler varnish to protect the deck and all of the wooden parts that you have previously fitted in place.
PHOTO 48: Using a sander and a flat file, eliminate the heads of the pins and sand down the surface until it is uniform. This will get rid
of the difference in height between strips. The surface must end up smooth.
PHOTOS 49 & 50: Gently sand down the stem 56 and glue it into place to the bow part of the hull, over the false keel, and then glue the
two parts of the keel 57 & 58.
PHOTO 51: Along the full length of the hull, glue the rubbing strakes 59. The rubbing strake must cover the union between the lining
strakes and the bulwarks.
PHOTO 52: Before applying the sealant for the paint you must make sure that the surface is flat and smooth. If there are still cracks or
gaps in the hull to be filled you can use plastic crack-filling putty to fill them, and then sand it down. Apply the crack-filler as many times
as required in order to ensure a perfect finish for the hull. Finally apply two coats of sealant, leaving each to dry and sanding them down
between first and second coat.
PHOTOS 53 - 55: To paint the model, first mark the lines that separate the different colours on the hull using a pencil and then use
masking tape to cover adjacent areas. First paint the bottom of the hull burgundy red, using synthetic gloss paint. When this bottom part
is dry mark it out with masking tape and paint the rest of the hull, up to the rubbing strakes using black gloss. Finally paint the bulwarks
white.
PHOTO 56: Glue the stanchions 63 & 64 to the bottom of the bulwarks. If necessary adjust the stanchions to the correct height and
then paint them white, the same as the inside of the bulwarks.
PHOTOS 57 & 58: Glue the limber boards 60 to 62 to the profile of the bulwarks. Start to fit the parts working from the bow aft and
adjust the length of the limber board 62 if necessary. Finally, apply a coat of pore-filler varnish to the limber boards to waterproof them.
Check out the close up of the stanchions and limber boards in PHOTO 55.
PHOTOS 59 - 61: Use a small hammer to insert the two bushings into the stern tube.Take the propeller shaft tube 67 and insert it into
the hole made in the stern. True up the hole if required, so that the tube will pass through to the inside of the hull. Firmly glue the tube in
place, to make sure no water will enter. Inject grease into the tube and insert the shaft 68 and the nut 69.
PHOTOS 62 & 63: Using a 8 mm diameter drill bit make a perpendicular hole from the top of the hull to the bottom. Be very careful,
when carrying out this operation, not to damage the paintwork. Screw on the propeller 70 and attach it with the nut.
PHOTOS 64 - 67: Insert the rudder tube 71 into the hole as shown and fit the washer 73. The rudder blade must not touch the keel.
Once in place glue the tube to the hull. Make sure to seal it effectively with glue to stop the water getting in.
PHOTO 68: At the top of the rudder shaft attach another washer 75, which will serve to seal the tube, and over that the nut 76.
PHOTO 69: Put together the helm, stud and stud bolt assembly, parts 77, 78 & 79. Tighten the stud bolt with the helm in a straight
position and the helm as shown in the photo.
SUPERSTRUCTURE
PHOTOS 70 - 72: On the inside of the cover 80 you must attach the battening strips 81 cut to size. These are glued inside the cover.
Recover part 45 and glue it to the centre of the cover. This operation can be better calculated by sizing it up at the stern of the launch.
PHOTOS 73 & 74: Locate the bitts 82 and glue them to the bases 83. Make a small hole to hold it in place. Make up sets of two and
attach them to the reinforcements 84. Paint the assemblies mat black and glue them onto the deck, against the bulwarks.
PHOTO 75: Take the capstan base 85 and cover it with the lining sheets 86. Paint the capstan 87 dark grey, decorate it with vertical
black lines and glue it to the base. Make up a complete 50 x 50 mm grating, inserting some of the strips 88 inside others. Use a fast
drying glue. Subsequently cut out a 30 x 30 mm section.
PHOTOS 77 & 78: Glue the strips 92 & 93 to the profiles of the sides of the box. One on the grating, against the capstan, and frame it
using the strips 94 & 95. Now glue this grating and capstan assembly onto the deck. The box must be left loose so that it can be
manipulated through the opening in the deck.
PHOTO 79: Recover the parts 65 & 66 and frame them at the top and bottom using the sheets 96. This will reinforce the part. Check
that they are adjusted as shown in Photo 80 and paint them mat black before fitting them into place.
PHOTO 80: Paint the double bitt 97 matt black and glue it in place in front of the hatch. Before you do this make the necessary holes.
PHOTOS 81 & 82: Make up two reels using the thread 98 and glue them to the bitt. Using parts 99, 100 & 101 make up the base for
the phase shifter speed control. This base is supported on the false keel and one of the frames, as shown in the image.
PHOTO 83: Fit and glue the parts 102, 103 & 104 into place in the holes on the deck. These parts have been decorated a gold colour.
Make up the winch assembly with the parts 105, 106 & 107. Paint this assembly gold and bright red. The two lengths of chain 108 are
glued to the chain pipes 102 & 104.
PHOTO 84: Take a piece of the filling 109 and warp it in the fender 110 making up a long roll. You can give this fender the correct
colour using a brownish alcohol based dye, or similar, Tie off the ends using the thread 111.
PHOTO 85: The fender is tied off to an eyebolt B at each end. Make up the bitt 112 on a length of rod 113 and paint it mat black. Make
up two more assemblies of bitts 82, their bases 83 and the reinforcements 84 and then paint them. Fit the columns 114 onto the limber