Tylo MPE Modo De Instalación Y De Empleo página 7

CC control panels.
Instructions: included with the control panel.
Can be installed at any distance from the sauna room.
CC panels are electronically operated and are available in the following
models:
CC 10-3/CC MPE. Manual and automatic on/off. A maximum of three
hours' running time, 10 hours' pre-set time.
CC 10-10. Manual and automatic on/off. A maximum of 10 hours' running
time, 10 hours' pre-set time.
CC 50-3. Manual and automatic on/off. A maximum of three hours' running
time, 10 hours' pre-set time.
CC 50-12. Manual and automatic on/off. A maximum of 12 hours' running
time, 10 hours' pre-set time.
CC 100-3. Manual and automatic on/off. A maximum of three hours'
running time, 24 hours' pre-set time.
CC 100-12. Manual and automatic on/off. A maximum of 12 hours' running
time, 24 hours' pre-set time.
CC 100-0. Built-in weekly timer. A maximum of 12 hours' continuous
running time.
Placement of the thermistor (sensor).
1500 mm above floor level (not above the sauna heater).
The thermistor wire can be lengthened outside of the sauna with a partially
enclosed low-voltage cable (2-core).
The thermometer in the sauna should be placed at a height so that the
temperature corresponds exactly to the numbers displayed on the CC
50/CC 100.
Note: If necessary seal the hole in the wall behind the thermistor.
Relay box (RB).
(No relay box is used for SE and MPE heaters).
Installed outside the sauna at any distance from it. The relay box may not
be placed closer than one metre from the CC 10/ CC 50/ CC 100.
Partially enclosed low-voltage cable (6-core).
The control cable between the CC 10/ CC 50/ CC 100 and the relay box or
SE/MPE heater must be a partially enclosed low-voltage cable (6-core).
Connect the shielding cable to plinth 12 in the relay box or SE/MPE heater.
Lighting.
Connect the lighting according to the wiring diagram.
Remote control operation.
CC control panels are already prepared for remote-control operation from
one or more locations.
Option: external on/off-switch (instantaneous).
Can be placed at any distance from the sauna. Connected with a low-
voltage cable to the CC 10/ CC 50/ CC 100 – see the wiring diagram. If
there are several external on/off switches, they should be parallel-
connected.
Connection to a central computer.
The control panel can also be connected to a central computer, which
gives a brief impulse (closure) between plinths 19 and 20 in the CC 10/
CC 50/ CC 100. The maximum permitted connection time for the sauna is
12 hours.
An instruction guide is included with the control panel.
Figs. 27-30, 34-36, 39-41 Wiring diagrams.
(With sauna heater SK, SD, SDK, SE, MPE and control panel CC).
1 = sauna heater. 2 = thermistor (sensor). 3 = control panel.
4 = external on/off switch (if any). 5 = relay box.
Check the heater's type identification plate to ensure that the heater is
connected to the right voltage. Don't forget – The installation must be
earthed!
Unusual voltages or number of phases.
Before connecting the heater to a different voltage or number of phases
than those described in the wiring diagram, contact Tylö Customer Service.
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
The importance of correct sauna ventilation.
Incorrect sauna ventilation can result in hot floors and benches, scorched
walls and ceilings (the temperature limit control is triggered)! So we do urge
you to follow our instructions for sauna ventilation carefully.
Adjust the air outlet to evacuate 6–8 cu.m. of air per person, per hour,
when the sauna is in operation.
Mechanical sauna ventilation is not to be recommended, as the forced air
supply can cause a fire hazard through the wooden panelling drying out.
Fig. 13. Sauna heater and door on the same wall.
The "air circulation" created by the door should work together with the hot
air generated by the heater. To facilitate this, the heater should be placed
on the same wall as the door (If exceptional circumstances require the
heater to be fitted to a side wall, make sure it is located in close proximity
to the wall with the door).
Fig. 14. Inlet vent always directly below the heater.
The inlet vent should be driven straight through the wall directly below the
centre of the heater. The cross-section of the vent for a family sauna is
approx. 125 Sq.cm., for larger saunas approx. 300 sq.cm.
Fig. 15. The outlet vent should never discharge directly
into the open air.
Position the air inlet and outlet vents as far away from one another as
possible (diagonally opposite). The outlet vent should be located high on a
wall or in the ceiling, and should have the same cross-section area as the
inlet vent.
Spent air should always be led back into the same room from which it is
drawn into the sauna – it must never be discharged directly into the open
air. In this way, the air flowing from the sauna is continually being
replenished in the room outside. This thermal ventilation method always
works, no matter whether the pressure in adjacent rooms is negative or
positive.
If there is a gap above the sauna ceiling, do not seal it. To ventilate a cavity
above the sauna, drill or cut at least one ventilation hole into the cavity
through the wall on which the sauna door is located.
Alt. A: Outlet vent through the sauna wall (seen from above). The vent is
placed high up, near the ceiling.
Alt. B: Outlet vent through the cavity above the sauna ceiling (seen from
the side).
Alt. C: Outlet vent through a drum under the ceiling in the sauna (seen
from the side). The outlet duct should be placed at an angle between the
ceiling and the wall. The drum can be built of wooden panelling and have
the same area as the outlet vent.
Fig. 16. Recommendations for sauna construction:
A. Floor frame, corner posts, studs, ceiling frame.
B. Battens, rafters, vents.
C. 50 mm mineral wool as heat insulation, approx. 20 mm air gap between
insulation and outer wall.
D. 12 mm wooden panel in walls and ceilings. There should always be at
least 50 mm of insulation behind the wooden panel; no other material,
such as particle board or plaster, may be used.
E. Bonded, non-slip plastic floor-covering, extending approx. 50 mm up
the walls behind the wooden panelling.
F. Inlet vents should always be fully open. May be fitted with a shuttered
vent on the outside.
G. Outlet vent, can be fitted with a sliding hatch to adjust through-flow.
H. Benches of at least 22 mm thick knot-free pine (alternatively aspen,
lime or obeche).
I. Drainage channel (recommended in public saunas). Never place a
drainage channel or drain under the sauna heater.
Fig. 17. Heater guard.
The stones and the top of the sauna heater get very hot! In order to reduce
the risk of accidental contact, Tylö always recommend that a heater guard
be fixed as shown in the sketches.
Some words of advice:
• There should never be a drain in a sauna. However, all public saunas
should have a drainage channel (I, fig. 16) connected to a drain out-side
the sauna (no drainage channel is needed in a private sauna).
• If the sauna has a window in the door or wall, treat the lower moulding
with boat varnish and seal the joint between the glass and the moulding
with a water-resistant silicone sealant. This prevents any condensation
on the glass from seeping into the wood.
• Varnish the threshold and door handles a few times with boat varnish to
maintain the finish and simplify cleaning the sauna. Benches, decorative
edging and back supports should be oiled on both sides with Tylö sauna
oil (this is particularly important in the Tylarium). Note: All other wood in
the sauna should be untreated.
• Install floor decking only if the floor is slippery. Floor decking is im-
practical and prolongs the drying time for any water spilt on the floor.
• Treat the bucket and ladle with boat varnish, or oil them with Tylö sauna
oil. The bucket will remain watertight and the wood will be beautifully
preserved. Never leave the wooden bucket in the sauna after a sauna
bath.
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