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ner, i.e. the plain (unmarked) face of the propeller must
face the motor. Glue the propeller to the motor shaft us-
ing a little 5-minute epoxy as follows: apply a little glue
inside the hole of the plastic spinner on the point of a pin,
then push the propeller onto the motor shaft Fig. 6.
5. Suppressing the motor
The motor is supplied with two internal suppressor ca-
pacitors fitted as standard. If you find that your radio con-
trol system suffers from interference, you can improve
the suppression by soldering a ceramic capacitor rated
at 10 to 47 nF across the motor's + and - terminals. You
may also find that the receiver picks up interference via
the BEC power supply, or from the speed controller via
the servo lead. In this case it often helps to fit a separa-
tion filter between the controller and the receiver.
6. Mounting the motor in the model
Glue the motor case to the tail end of the fuselage with a
few drops of 5-minute epoxy, and align it carefully. The
motor can should end flush with the bottom edge of the
fuselage, with the cooling slots exactly in line with the air
ducts in the moulding. Run the power cables forward into
the fuselage.
7. Gluing the fin to the fuselage
The fin 5 should be installed between the wings, leaving
space at the front for the canopy to fit on the fuselage
without projecting. Apply the glue sparingly and ensure
that the pushrods remain free-moving. You may find it
necessary to cut away a little from the inside of the fin for
clearance, depending on the exact position of the control
system pushrods. Position the fin carefully and tape or
pin it in place if necessary until the glue has set hard.
Any excess epoxy can be removed with methylated spir-
its while it is still soft.
8. Attaching the canopy
The canopy 4 is retained by the locating tongue 43 at the
rear, which engages in the pushrod duct, and by a rubber
band at the front. To swap batteries raise the canopy
slightly, pull it forward and swivel it to one side Fig. 3.
Screw the screw-hooks 25 into the two screw-hook plates
42. Using a pair of combination pliers or a vice, squeeze
the loop of the fuselage-mounted screw-hook closed.
Thread the rubber band through the loop, and glue the
support plate 42 in the battery well in the position shown.
Note that the bottom fixing point must be further towards
the tail of the model than the top one, so that the band
pulls the canopy into its correct position. As far as possi-
ble, all of the rubber band should be located towards the
nose of the model, otherwise you may have difficulty find-
ing space for the flight battery Fig. 3.
When the glue has set hard, connect the rubber band 26
to the top screw-hook. To fit the canopy, engage the lo-
cating tongue at the rear first, then allow the front end to
snap into place. Check that there is sufficient tension in
the rubber to hold the canopy securely closed.
10
Tip: if the rubber band becomes weaker over time, "wind
up" (twist) the rubber slightly to increase the tension again.
9. Final assembly
Glue two strips of Velcro tape 27 (the "hook" side) in the
battery well, and stick the corresponding "loop" tape 28
to the underside of the flight battery. Apply a loop of ordi-
nary adhesive tape round the battery, to make it easier to
withdraw the pack from the fuselage. Place the flight pack
in the battery well, and complete all the electrical con-
nections prior to testing the working systems.
Don't connect the motor until you have switched on
the transmitter and checked that the motor control
stick or switch is at "OFF".
Switch the transmitter on, and connect the flight pack to
the speed controller in the model. Your speed controller
must be a BEC type, which derives the voltage for the
receiver power supply from the flight battery.
Hold the model securely and remove any loose, light-
weight objects from the area behind the propeller, then
switch the motor on briefly and check that the propeller
spins in the correct direction.
Caution: keep clear of the spinning propeller blades!
Even with small motors the propeller can easily hurt
you.
10. Control surface travels
To achieve a well-balanced control response it is impor-
tant to set the control surface travels correctly. Pull the
elevator stick back towards you, and the elevators should
rise by about 15 mm. Full down-travel (stick forward)
should be 12 mm.
Set the aileron travels to +/- 15 mm (no differential). When
you move the aileron stick to the right, the right-hand ai-
leron should rise, the left-hand aileron fall.
11. Balancing
Just like every other flying machine, your "PicoJet" must
balance at a particular point if it is to fly stably and re-
spond correctly to the controls. Assemble your model
completely, ready to fly, and install the flight battery. You
will find raised marks on the underside of the wing. Sup-
port the model on your fingertips at these two points, and
the model should balance level. If the model is nose-heavy
or tail-heavy, re-position the flight pack to correct it. The
most accurate and convenient method of balancing any
model aircraft is to use the MULTIPLEX CG gauge (Or-
der No. 69 3054). Once you have established the correct
CG, mark the position of the flight pack in the battery well
so that you can replace it correctly every time.
Check that the rubber band holds the canopy firmly
closed. If the canopy opens in flight, the model will crash.
12. Gilding the lily - applying a little decoration
The kit is supplied with a multi-colour decal sheet 8. Cut
out the individual name placards and emblems and ap-
ply them to the model in the position shown in the kit box
illustration, or in an arrangement which you find pleas-
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