OcCre 14002 JABEQUE Instrucciones De Montaje página 8

PHOTOS 65 & 66: Glue the flaps (no. 30), removed from the bulwarks in step 25. Fit them on both sides of the gun ports. These
pieces can also be painted brown or stained with pitch. Make a number of holes in the bulwark to simulate water outlets. Fit the
necessary rings and eyebolts to the flaps. Using brass wire make up the hinges (no. 123) for the flaps and glue them on,
painted matt black.
PHOTOS 67 & 68: Using matt black and light brown or cram paint, decorate the parts shown in these photos (nos. 124, 125,
126, 127 & 128). Fit them in place as shown in the photos.
Glue a length of the strip (no. 129) onto the limber board to simulate another bulwark, and then glue the inwale (no. 130) onto
this.
PHOTO 69: Decorate the set of parts shown in light brown or cream and fit them in place as shown in the photo, and on plan 2.
PHOTOS 70 & 71: Cut lengths of the strips (nos. 134 & 135) to size to make up the boom support and strut. Glue them in place
against the transom, supported on the bulwarks. Decorate the transom adornments (no. 136), matching the rest of the
adornments, and glue them in place.
PHOTOS 72 & 73: Cut the rods used for the oars to length, as indicated, and file them down before fitting the reinforcements
and handgrips (nos. 138 & 139) to each one, already painted. Also check with plan 3. Make up two equal bundles of oars and
attach them to the deck using eyebolts and the thread lashings (no. 140).
PHOTO 74: Line the bridge ladders (no. 141) using the lining (no. 142). Glue them to the limber boards and the upper deck.
The ladders are assembled using the uprights (no. 143). The steps are made by cutting the strips (no. 144) to the indicated
lengths. Once assembled cut to size if required. Use quick drying glue.
PHOTO 75: Make up the boom (no. 145) and fit it in place on the deck column and the transom strut.
PHOTO 76: Find the four gun shanks (no. 146) and stain them with pitch. Make holes the same size as the gun shanks centred
in the gun bases and finally glue them in place.
PHOTOS 77 to 79: Decorate the gun carriages (no. 147) and on them mount the guns (no. 148), along with the axles (no. 149).
Simulate the fuse hole by drilling a 1 mm diameter hole. Decorate the guns using pitch. The supports (no. 150) are made up
using small brass strips. Use a piece of the left over brass from the helm shaft, with a diameter of 1.5 mm as a template. First
give it the curved shape and then, using pliers, form the wings that must be glued to the carriages.
Make up the wedges from the strip (no. 151) and glue the belaying pins (no. 152) to them, first making a small hole. Place all
the guns into position as shown in the photo.
Fit the eyebolts, cut in half, so that they do not go through the bulwarks and tie off the lashings (no. 153). Glue the ends of the
lashings to the side of the carriage. Also fit the necessary eyebolts and sings to the deck.
PHOTOS 80 & 81: Glue the falconette bases (no. 154) onto the stanchions of the upper deck. Give shape to the falconette
supports (no. 155) using flat pliers. Insert a pin into the central hole and another to hold the falconette (no. 156). These have
been decorated with pitch. Fit them onto the base of the bulwarks and onto the central raining on the deck.
PHOTO 82: Make up the anchor stocks using pieces of the strip (no. 158). Assemble various layers leaving the opening to fit
the anchor and file it down to give it the final shape.
Insert the stocks into the anchors (no. 157) and attach the rings (no, 159). Tie the cable (no. 160) off to the ring and attach the
lashing (no. 161). The ring is tied off to a pulley (E) using a sling (C).
PHOTO 83: Fit the sheaves (no. 98) and block them using the return blocks (no. 162). The anchors are tied off using the tackle
(no. 163), which is passed through the pulley attached to the anchor and through the sheaves of the davit and is then tied off on
a cleat (no. 111) attached to the davit. Subsequently tie t off with the lashings (no. 161), as shown in the photo. The anchor
cable (no. 160) is passed through a hole, previously made in the tack, in the direction of a hatch in the deck (see photo 97).
PHOTOS 84 & 85: Assemble the frames (nos. 165 to 176) onto the false keel (no. 164) but do not glue them. Onto them fit the
base (no. 178) and then start to glue all of the frames to the base. Then glue the frames to the false keel and finally glue the last
frame (no. 177). Glue the reinforcements (nos. 179, 180 & 181) on both sides of the false keel.
PHOTO 86: Taking great care file down the reinforcements. This job is the same as when filing down the hull of the ship before
lining it.
PHOTOS 87 to 89: Start to line the hull of the boat from the small lines marked on each of the frames. Fit 2 strips of the lining
(no. 182) in the direction of the false keel and then start to line working from the false keel towards these first 2 strips, until the
hull has been lined. Sand the hull down gently and then, using a saw, separate the hull from the base. If any gaps remain
between strips fill them with putt and paint the outside a cream colour.
PHOTO 90: Fit the stem (no. 184) and glue the rubbing strakes (no. 183) onto the second lining strip. Dampen the rubbing
strakes before fitting them so that they gain elasticity, and hold them in place using quick drying glue.
PHOTO 91: Carefully cut the top part of the last 4 frames shown, in order to be able to fit the thwarts (no. 187). Glue the
transom (no. 186) in continuation to last frame. Paint the inside matt black. Fit the strips (no. 185) to the bottom of the hull and
finally fit the thwarts (nos. 187 & 188).
PHOTOS 92 & 93: Glue the bulwark (no. 189) using the same type of strip as you used to make up the boat. Using the strip (no.
190) make up the false frames. Also paint the newly fitted bulwarks matt black. Fit more false frames in between the original
frames.
PHOTO 94: Now paint all of the frames light brown or cream. From the stern thwarts to the bow glue strips into place as the
thwart seating support (no. 191).
PHOTO 95: Using the strip (no. 192) make up the seating strips and glue them into place on the supporting strips. The mast
support fitted to the central seat is also made up using the strip (no. 192).
PHOTO 96: Glue the limber boards (no. 193) onto the profile of the hull lining, making sure that you also cover over the top of
the frames. The limber boards (no. 194) are glued onto the stern bulwarks. Cut lengths of the strip (no. 195) for the thole bases
and glue them to the limber boards. For each one insert a pin and then cut the head off. Previously make a hole to insert the
rudder (no. 196) and then attach the tiller (no. 197) in the other end. Paint the whole of the keel dark brown.
PHOTO 97: Glue the chocks (nos. 199 & 200 onto the strips (no. 198). Glue the boat onto them and then glue this assembly
onto the deck. Tie the boat down using eyebolts, deck-rings and the lashings (nos. 201 & 202).