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SLIDE CUTS
Never make a cut by pulling the saw
toward you. The blade can "climb"
on top of the workpiece and come toward you at an
accelerated speed. Failure to heed this warning could
result in serious personal injury.
See Figure 18.
With the saw powered off, pull the saw arm forward. Turn
the saw on (wait for blade to reach full speed). push the
blade down cutting into the workpiece, then back toward
the rear of the saw to make a cut. Cuts must be made
by pushing the saw blade away from you and toward the
back of the saw stopping at the maximum rear position
after each cut. While the saw is running, NEVER pull the
saw blade toward you or toward the front of the saw. See
warning above.
1. Raise arm to its full height.
2. Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge securely against the fence. If the board is warped, place
the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge of a board is placed against the fence, the board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the blade. See Figure 18.
3. When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, support the opposite end of the stock with a stand or with a work
table level with the saw table.
4. Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the blade or laser line.
5. Loosen the slide lock knob.
6. Hold the stock firmly with one hand, against the fence. Use the work clamp to secure the workpiece whenever
possible.
7. With the saw off, perform a dry run of the cut to make sure that no problems will occur when the actual cut is made.
8. With the saw off, grasp the saw handle firmly then pull the saw forward until the center of the saw blade is over the
front edge of the workpiece or until the saw is fully extended.
9. Squeeze the power switch trigger. Allow the blade to reach maximum speed.
10. Slowly lower the blade through the front edge of the workpiece.
11. While holding the workpiece push the saw handle away from you and toward the back of the saw.
12. Release the power switch and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece. After
blade stops, remove the workpiece from miter table.
NOTE: A cross cut is made by cutting across the grain of the workpiece. A straight cross cut is made with the miter table
set at the 0° position. Miter cross cuts are made with the miter table set at some angle other than 0°.
BEVEL CUTS
A bevel cut is made across the grain with the blade angled to the workpiece. A straight bevel means the miter scale
indicator is set at 0° and the bevel scale indicator is set at an angle other than 0°.
COMPOUND MITER CUTS
A compound miter cut is made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. Adjustments of miter and bevel
settings are interdependent. Each time you adjust the miter setting change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time
you adjust the bevel setting you change the effect of the miter setting.
TIPS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
•
The two edges of the molding that contact the ceiling and the wall are at angles that, when added together, equal
exactly 90°. Most crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a
bottom rear angle (the section that fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
•
To accurately cut crown molding for a 90° inside or outside corner, lay the molding with its broad back surface flat on
the miter table and against the fence.
OPERATION
15
FIGURE 18
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