OcCre Palamós Instrucciones De Montaje página 5

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS PALAMÓS
HULL
PHOTO 1. Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames in place make
sure that they are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel. It is important that
the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel. For this operation use white glue (carpenter's glue) as the adhesive.
PHOTO 2. Using a pencil mark out the line that lengthways divides the deck (no. 11) into two symmetrical halves. Then line the
deck using the planking (no. 12), adjusting the first strip to the pencil line and working towards the edge of the deck. For this
operation use contact glue (cobbler's adhesive) as an adhesive.
PHOTO 3. Place the lined deck face down and trim off any excess planking. Image no. 5 shows the aspect of the finished deck.
PHOTO 4. To simulate the deck planking and caulking, mark the lengthways lines on the lining sheets with a pencil and then
mark out alternating crossways lines every 110 mm. Finally, alongside the crossways lines, mark out the points to simulate the
nails.
PHOTO 5. Also trim away the lining that covers the holes opened inside the deck, which are shown here by the arrows.
PHOTO 6. Glue the deck (no. 11) onto the frames and the false keel. It is important that the deck be correctly adjusted to the top
of the frames and the false keel. This operation must be carried out using quick drying glue.
PHOTO 7. Glue the battens /nos. 13 and 14) to each side of the false keel. Use white glue for this operation.
PHOTO 8. Glue the battens (nos. 15, 16 and 17) to the false keel.
PHOTO 9. To achieve a good contact surface on which to glue the lining strakes, using a file or a block covered with sandpaper,
file or sand down the battens and the edge of the frames working from bow to stern.
PHOTO 10. Carry out the same operation as above but this time filing or sanding from stern to bow.
PHOTO 11. The false keel in the bow area will have to be reduced until it is approximately 2 mm wide.
PHOTO 12. You must also obtain a width of 2 mm in the stern area of the false keel.
PHOTO 13. Line one side of each of the bulwarks (no. 18) using the lining (no. 19). For this operation use contact adhesive.
PHOTOS 14 / 15. Trim off the excess lining from the bulwarks and sand them gently. Using a round file go over the openings in
the bulwarks.
PHOTOS 16 / 17 / 18. Glue one of the bulwarks to the structure of the hull, fitting it into the slots in the deck. The lined side of
the bulwark must face inwards. To avoid breakages it is advisable to dampen the parts with water, or apply heat to them before
twisting them into shape. Once the centre of the bulwark is glued to the deck keep pressing it until it is firmly attached at bow
and stern.
PHOTO 19. The bulwark must be attached to the hull as shown in the image.
PHOTO 20. Before fitting the second bulwark, check to make sure that it fits correctly. If necessary trim it down using
sandpaper or a file.
PHOTO 21. The hull must look like this when the two bulwarks have been fitted into place.
PHOTO 22. Glue the batten (no. 20) into place over the forward openings of the two bulwarks.
PHOTO 23. Cut and glue the stanchions (no. 21) onto the bulwarks. To make sure that they are firmly attached it is a good idea
to use clamps which will hold them in place until the glue dries.
PHOTO 24. Using a file adjust the height of the stanchions (no. 21) to that of the bulwarks. Then glue the battens (no. 22) in
place as shown in the image.
PHOTO 25. Before starting to line the hull, soak the lining strakes (no. 23) in water, so that the wood can recover its elasticity.
Starting with the central frames pin and glue a lining strake in the centre of the hull, using pins A. For this process use white
glue.
PHOTO 26. The strakes must reach as far as the bow and beyond the battens.
PHOTO 27. At the stern the strakes must be adjusted to the bulwarks. The process of lining the hull must be carried out
simultaneously on both sides, i.e. for every strake attached to one side you must next attach a strake to the other side.
PHOTO 28. A rib saw will be very useful for adjusting the strakes.
PHOTO 29. You must continue lining the hull, gluing the strakes together and onto the frames. The lining must be attached
working down from the bulwarks towards the false keel and finishing in the middle of the hull.
PHOTO 30. To seal of the gaps in the lining make to measure pieces of strake sharpened at both ends.
PHOTO 31. In some areas of the hull you must fit wedges shaped pieces of strake, which must also be made to size
PHOTO 32. Having completed the lining process, sand down the whole of the hull, using a sander and file off the heads of the
pins using a file, until the surface is smooth and uniform. The lining of the hull must be flush with the bulwarks.
PHOTOS 33 / 34. You must leave a flat area at both the bow and the stern, at least 4 mm thick.
PHOTOS 35 / 36. Mark out a vertical line on the outside of the bulwarks taking the distance as shown in the plan. Then, using
contact adhesive, glue the first strip of the lining (no. 24), adjusted to the bottom of the bulwark and from the pencil line to the
bow of the boat. Continue attaching sheets of lining until you have completely covered the bulwarks. Using a round file go over
the openings in the bulwarks.
PHOTO 37. On the bulwarks, towards the stern, use the planking (no. 25). In this area of the hull we must adjust the planking
strips one by one. For this operation check with the plan.
PHOTOS 38 / 39 / 40. Start to fit the planking (no. 25) working from the bulwarks down towards the false keel and from the false
keel up towards the bulwarks. The process of fitting this second lining is the same as with the first. You will also have to make to
measure pieces of the planking, sharpened at both ends, and wedge shaped pieces to fill up the gaps as required. When
attaching this second lining use contact adhesive. Having completed the lining of the hull use very fine-grained sandpaper to
sand down the whole of the exterior of the hull and then, using a brush or a cloth, eliminate all of the residues from the sanding.
PHOTOS 41 / 42. Having first checked with the plan, glue into place the parts (nos. 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30). Sand down and glue
into place the rubbing strakes (no. 32). In this image you can see how the parts (nos. 29, 30, 31 and 32) will end up after fitting.
PHOTO 43. Sand down and glue the rubbing strakes (no. 33) adjusted to the top of the bulwarks. These rubbing strakes must
reach from the stem to the vertical rubbing strake attached to the bulwark. Glue the hawse (no. 34) into place, inserting them in
the openings in the bulwarks at the bow.
PHOTOS 44 / 45. Make up and glue into place the cleats (no. 35). Sand down and glue into place the limber boards (nos. 36,
37 and 38) to the bulwarks. For this operation first observe the figure shown in the plan.
PHOTO 46. Cut and glue into place the battens (no. 39). Having reached this point in the building of the boat you must varnish
the whole of the hull and the wooden parts which from now on you will be incorporating to the boat. The varnishing process