Multiplex EasyGlider Instrucciones De Montaje página 15

If you cannot set the stated travels by carrying out adjustments at
the transmitter, you will need to re-connect the pushrods to diffe-
rent holes in the servo output arms and / or control surface horns.
Gilding the lily - applying the decals
The kit is supplied with a multi-colour decal sheet. Cut out the
individual name placards and emblems and apply them to the
model in the position shown in the kit box illustration, or in another
arrangement which you find pleasing. The canopy 5 can be
coloured black down to the edges using a waterproof felt-tip pen
(e.g. Edding 3000).
Balancing
Like any other aircraft, the EasyGlider / EasyGlider Electric must
be balanced at a particular point in order to achieve stable flying
characteristics. Assemble your model completely, ready to fly.
You can usually obtain the correct CG position by adjusting the
position of the receiver battery or flight battery. If this is not
sufficient, add lead ballast to the nose or tail until the model
balances at the stated point.
The Centre of Gravity (CG) should be about 70 mm from the
leading edge at the wing root, measured either side of the
fuselage. Mark this point on both sides of the fuselage using a
waterproof felt-tip pen.
Support the model at this point on two fingertips, and it should
balance level. If not, you can move the flight battery or receiver
battery forward or aft to correct the balance point. Once the correct
position is found, mark the location of the battery inside the model
to ensure that it is always replaced in the same position.
Fig. 34
Preparing for the first flight
For the first flight wait for a day with as little breeze as possible.
The early evening is often a good time.
If this is your first model aircraft, your next step is to ask an
experienced model pilot to help you, as things usually do not go
well if you try to manage on your own. Your local model flying club
should be able to help you find someone, or - failing that - your
nearest model shop may be able to assist you. Our flight
simulator for the PC can also provide valuable experience prior
to your "first real steps" in model flying.
You can download the simulator at no charge from our website
www.multiplex-rc.de. You will also need the matching interface
cable for your MPX transmitter; this is available from model shops
under Order No. # 8 5153.
Be sure to carry out a range check before the first flight.
Just before the flight, charge up the transmitter battery and the
flight pack (or receiver battery) using the recommended
procedures. Ensure that "your" channel is not already in use
before you switch on the transmitter.
Ask your assistant to walk away from the model, holding the
transmitter. The aerial should be fitted but completely collapsed.
Your assistant should operate one of the functions constantly
while you watch the servos. The non-controlled servo should
stay motionless up to a range of about 60 m, and the controlled
one should follow the stick movements smoothly and without
any delay. Please note that this check can only give reliable results
if the radio band is clear of interference, and if no other radio
control transmitters are in use - even on different channels. If the
range check is successful, repeat it with the motor running
(EasyGlider Electric only). There should be no more than a very
slight reduction in effective radio range with the motor turning.
If you are not sure about anything, please don't risk a flight. Send
the whole system (including battery, switch harness and servos)
to the Service Department of your RC system manufacturer and
ask them to check it.
The first flight ...
Glider:
A test-glide from shoulder level, directly into wind, will give you
an approximate idea of the model's "trim", i.e. whether it is set
up correctly, or whether the control surfaces or transmitter trims
need to be adjusted. If the model swings away to one side,
move the rudder trim slightly in the opposite direction. If the model
banks - one wing lower than the other - apply slight aileron trim
correction.
Hand-towing
This is the classic method of launching a glider to height. Attached
to a suitable length of towline (supplied in the kit), the model is
pulled up by your assistant running into wind; the glider will rise
up the line in a similar fashion to a kite. The towline first needs to
be prepared as follows: tie the towring 52 and the pennant 51 to
the "model" end of the line. The ring is engaged on the towhook
32, the towline unwound and your assistant (launcher) takes the
free end and walks upwind until the line is taut. The model should
be held under gentle tension before it is released. The launcher
watches the model (over his shoulder), adjusting his pace to
maintain a steady rate of climb. Take care not to overstress the
model during the launch; this is a particular danger in a fairly
strong wind.
Bungee launching
This is the easiest method of launching a glider of this size, as
no assistant is needed, and launch heights of around 100 m are
easily achieved. From this altitude quite long flying times can be
achieved, and they will be even longer if you manage to contact
a thermal, although this does depend on the prevailing weather.
A suitable rubber bungee launch system is available under
Order No. 72 3388.
Thermal flying
Making the best use of flat field thermals is not particularly easy,
and calls for considerable skill and experience. Areas of rising
air are harder to detect and recognise at a flat field, because they
tend to occur at higher altitude than at the hillside, where it is
often possible to find lift while the model is cruising along the
edge of the slope and then circle away in it. A thermal at a flat field
which occurs directly overhead is very hard to recognise, and to
exploit it to the full requires a highly skilled pilot. For this reason
it is always best to go thermal seeking off to one side of where
you are standing.
You will recognise thermal contact by the glider's behaviour. Good
thermals are obvious because the model will climb strongly, but
weak thermals take a practised eye to detect, and you will need
a lot of skill to make use of them. With a little practice you will be
able to recognise likely trigger points for thermals in the local
landscape. The ground warms up in the sun's heat, but heat
absorption varies according to the type of terrain and the angle
of the sun's rays. The air over the warmer ground becomes
warmer in turn, and the mass of warm air flows along close to
the ground, driven by the breeze. Strong winds usually prevent
thermal build-up. Any obstruction - a shrub or tree, a fence, the
edge of a wood, a hill, a passing car, even your own model on
the landing approach - may cause this warm air to leave the
ground and rise. Imagine a drop of water on the ceiling,
wandering around aimlessly, and initially staying stuck to the
ceiling. If it strikes an obstruction it will fall on your head. A triggered
thermal can be thought of as the opposite of the drop of water.
The most obvious thermal triggers include sharply defined snow
fields on mountain slopes. The air above the snow field is cooled,
and flows downhill; at the edge of the snow field, part-way down
the valley, the cool air meets warm air flowing gently uphill, and
pushes it up and away as if cut off by a knife. The result is an
extremely powerful but bumpy thermal bubble. Your task is to
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