Publicidad
bulkheads, as a kind of corner-piece, fit lengths of the strip (no. 58) cut to the same height as the bulkheads. Cover the last hole
in the bulkheads with pieces of the plywood sheet (no. 43). Varnish all of the bulkheads before covering them with the upper
deck. Before covering over this deck, make up and fit the hatch ladder, as shown in photo 80.
PHOTO 46: Fit the two halves of the deck (no. 59) into position and completely line it using the strips (no. 60).
PHOTOS 47 to 50: Glue the stringers (no. 61) onto the deck and against the bulwark. The 4 mm width is supported by the deck.
Varnish the deck and bulwarks area and then paint the whole of the interior surface of the bulwarks and the stringer fitted there
bright red. Use water-based acrylic modelling paint.
PHOTO 51: Cut out two plywood pieces, approximately 40 mm long. Adjust and glue them between the reinforcements (no. 18)
and the deck (no. 27). In continuation line the bottom part of the transom using the strips (no. 62). The lining must cover the
whole back part of the hull. Trim off any excess from the side gun ports. Open out the holes, as shown, for the subsequent fitting
of two guns.
PHOTO 52: Line the bow deck using the sheets (no. 63) and the front of the frame using the sheets (no. 64). The top of the
frame is covered using the sheets (no. 65). Fit a first lining stake (no. 66) along the full length of the top bulwark.
PHOTOS 53 & 54: In order to achieve a good contact surface for the lining strakes, using a sander, file or similar, sand or file
down the reinforcing chocks and bevel the edge of the frames working from bow to stern.
PHOTOS 55 to 57: Before starting to line the hull, you can soak the lining strakes (nos. 66 & 67) in hot water, for at least an
hour, so that the wood recovers its elasticity. Start to line the hull by placing the first strake (no. 66) fitted to the bulwark and
working upwards until it has been completely covered. Use white glue and pins.
To give a greater sense of realism to the lining, use alternative strakes, as in real life the strakes do not cover the full length of a
hull, which is built with strakes being joined together, one after the other. See photo 55.
Over the gun ports of the first and second batteries, fit the strakes (no. 67), until they are completely covered. Any excess will
then be trimmed off and the openings for the gun ports opened up again using a cutter. The lining is completed by working down
towards the bottom of the hull using more strakes (no. 66). In the same way the lining must be continued from the false keel
upwards towards the top, to finish off the hull.
The strakes must completely cover the reinforcement chocks at the bow and the stern, leaving exposed the 5 mm thickness of
the false keel, so that the stem (no. 69) and the stern post (no. 70) can later be attached.
The strakes must reach as far as the stern transom. With wet lining strakes it will be easier to follow the necessary curvature
and ensure that they adapt to the shape of the hull.
The hull must be lined on both sides. It is important that the strakes are well joined together laterally, as this hull has only a
single lining and, if they are too far apart from each other they will not look very good.
The gaps left in the centre of the hull must be filled using sections of lining sharpened to a point at both ends. There will also be
triangular-shaped gaps, which must be filled using wedge-shaped pieces of liner.
Once the hull lining process has been completed, sand down the hull in order to level off the lining strips and eliminate the pi
heads. If any large gaps are left these can now be filled using wood repair putty of the same colour.
PHOTOS 58 & 59: Select the strips to make up the rubbing strakes (no. 68). Soak them in water so that they gain in elasticity.
Fit and glue the rubbing strakes to the hull using quick-drying glue, having first checked with the plans and photos. These
rubbing strakes can be stained using pitch or painted mat black once they have been fitted into place.
The inside of the gun ports are also painted mat black in order to give a sensation of depth.
PHOTOS 60 & 61: You must glue the stem (no. 69) into the 5 mm gap left for it at the bow. Adapt it to the same curvature as
the false keel. The stern post (no. 70) is glued into place at the back. If necessary adapt the length so that it ends up at the
same level as the false keel, before doing so check the plans and photos.
PHOTO 62: In continuation of the stem glue two sections of the keel (no. 71) into place and then the last section (no. 72). In
continuation of the stem and over the keel sections that you have just fitted, glue a strip (no. 67).
PHOTO 63: Using the strip (no. 73) frame the four sides of each of the gun port openings. Any excess that projects beyond the
hull must be eliminated by sanding down until it is flush.
PHOTO 64: Also frame the gun port openings of the first battery, using the strips (no. 74). Cut the top rubbing strake so that the
strips (no. 75), that make up the tabling, can be inserted into it. Glue a length of the strip (no. 76) to the top as a reinforcement.
Repeat these steps on both sides of the hull.
PHOTO 65: Cut the limber boards (nos. 77, 78 & 80) to size and, before gluing them to the bulwarks, make slots in the side,
using a triangular file. The curved finishes (no. 79) are made using strips cut to the same width as the limber boards. Use quick-
drying glue. Now that this has been done open up the gun ports for the bulwark guns.
PHOTOS 66 & 67: Also cut to size the limber boards (nos. 81, 82 & 87), and glue them to their respective location. Fit the
rubbing strakes (nos. 83, 84 & 85). A similar slot to the one in the limber boards can also be made in the rubbing strakes before
fitting them in place. Finish off the curves of the bulwarks using the strips (no. 79). The adornment (no. 86) is made up using
brass wire and giving it the form of a spiral.
PHOTO 68: Fit the vertical prolongation (no. 69) onto the stem. Behind this glue on the knighthead (no. 88). Also take note of
how far the strip (no. 83), fitted in the previous step, extends.
PHOTO 69: Make a cut on the back of the bulwark to expose the cabins bulkhead. This cut should be 10 mm towards the
interior and open all the way to the lower deck.
PHOTO 70: Glue the heads (no. 89) under the gun ports on the front frame. Glue the adornment (no. 90) across the whole width
of the frame and onto the heads, having previously bent it into shape. Using the brass wire finish off the top and bottom of the
adornment (no. 90). Glue two doors to the front side, making them up from the strips (no. 92), attaching the hinges (no. 93),
previously cut to size. Use two eyebolts and two rings as door handles. Make a 3 mm diameter hole in the heads. Use quick-
drying glue.
PHOTO 71: Glue the parts (nos. 94, 95 and 96) to the slots in the stem. Make sure that they are well centred, so that the head
rail (no. 97) fits well on them. Glue the head rail, attaching a Samson post (no. 98) to the top. This must be done by carving it
Publicidad
