• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
• Always make dry runs (without power) before fi nish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
• Do not cross your hands.
• Keep both feet fi rmly on the fl oor and maintain proper balance.
• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
• Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece (fi g. A6)
• Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
• For best results use the clamp (29) made for use with your saw.
Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp
to either side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp
against a solid, fl at surface of fence.
WARNING: Always use a material clamp when cutting non-
ferrous metals.
Support for long pieces (fi g. A4)
• Always support long pieces.
• For best results, use the extension work support (27) to extend the
table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects
(fi g. Q1 & Q2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in fi g. Q1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel
adjustment.
- Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90° corner.
The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is positioned with
the broad fl at side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
- Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.
The two sketches (fi g. Q1 & Q2) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Compound mitre (fi g. R1 & R2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fi g. Q2) and a bevel
angle (fi g. Q1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fi g. R1.
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Angle mitre or bevel
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check
that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or mitre.
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel
and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle "A" (fi g. R2) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to fi nd the correct bevel angle and straight across
to fi nd the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fi tting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle "A")
(fi g. R2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top
or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try
cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
Cutting base mouldings
The cutting of base moulding is performed at a 45° bevel angle.
• Always make a dry run without power before making any cuts.
• All cuts are made with the back of the moulding laying fl at on the saw.
Inside corner
- Left side
• Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
• Save the left side of the cut.
- Right side
• Position the moulding with the bottom of the moulding against the
fence.
• Save the left side of the cut.
Outside corner
- Left side
• Position the moulding with the bottom of the moulding against the
fence.
• Save the right side of the cut.
- Right side
• Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
• Save the right side of the cut.
E N G L I S H
SQUARE BOX
33