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Pentair SPD50H Manual Del Propietário página 5

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MAINTENANCE & REPAIR
REPAIR
Read the following instructions carefully before replacing any
parts. Reasonable care and safe methods should be practiced.
Check local codes and requirements before installation.
Only a competent electrician should make the installations.
TOOLS REQUIRED
General shop tools include socket wrenches and a bearing
puller. An ohmmeter is required to thoroughly check motor and
wiring.
For proper automatic operation, make sure the pump power
cord is plugged into the piggyback receptacle on the float switch
cord.
Before removing the pump from its installation for repairs,
check first to see if the trouble is caused by:
1.
Mis-wiring of the pump into the terminal block.
2.
Mis-wiring of the float level controls into the panel.
3.
Mis-wiring inside the control panel.
4.
Trip circuit breaker. If the breaker is manually reset and
then trips off again, the problem could be:
Short circuit in motor or control panel
Water in the motor housing
Insufficient amp capacity of wiring or breakers
Improper panel wiring
5.
Tripped overload. If overload is manually reset and then
trips off again, the problem could be:
Pump or piping is clogged
Pump motor or bearings may be defective
Start capacitor in motor may have failed
Pump may be mis-wired to terminal block
Head is lower than rating, pumping too much liquid
6.
Air locked pump. Disconnect piping at union and run until all
air bubbles are expelled.
7.
Wrong impeller rotation. Rotation should be
counterclockwise when looking at the impeller. Correct
improper rotation on three phase pumps by reversing any
two line leads. No rotation check is necessary on single
phase pumps.
8.
Closed discharge gate valve.
9.
Plugged impeller or pipeline.
10. Discharge head may be too high. Check elevation against
design point of pump.
11. Floats not hanging free in the sump.
12. Malfunctioning floats.
W-03-193 (10-15-22)
CHECKING POWER CORD
Be certain power to pump is off! Disconnect
pump power cord from terminals in control panels (manual pump
models) and power source (automatic models) and remove pump
from sump.
To be sure wires are not burned off or broken in cord, use
ohmmeter for check. Set ohmmeter scale pointer to R x 1 scale
and attach one meter lead to white cord wire and one meter
lead to black cord wire, then place a screwdriver blade across
terminals of plug. If cord is OK, meter needle will go to zero and
stay there. If meter needle does not move, this will indicate an
open wire and cord must be replaced.
MOTOR
Be certain power to pump is off! Disconnect
pump power cord from terminals in control panels (manual pump
models) and power source (automatic models) and remove pump
from sump.
1.
Clean any dirt or trash from the outside of the pump
before dismantling. If the unit is being operated by float or
diaphragm switch, unplug the pump from the piggyback
receptacle and plug the pump directly into the power
source. If the pump starts each time it is plugged directly
into the receptacle and does not start each time when
plugged into the piggyback switch with the float raised
or the diaphragm switch pressed into the start position,
replace the complete piggyback switch assembly and
retest with new assembly.
2.
If motor does not run when tested as described above, the
capacitor and/or stator must be checked. Disconnect from
power supply. Remove plug (#6) from top of housing and
pour oil into container, preferably clear, so that oil can be
observed.
3.
If oil is clear, it will indicate motor is not burned and there
has been no water leak into the motor. If oil is cloudy, it will
indicate water in motor, or, if oil is black, it will indicate a
burned stator.
4.
After draining oil, carefully loosen the power cord assembly
(#22) from the motor housing (#2). With power cord loose,
remove the four wire nuts and screws (#4) and carefully lift
off the motor housing (#2) exposing the capacitor (#28) (1ø
only) and the motor assembly.
5.
On single phase (1ø) units, check capacitor (#28) using
ohmmeter. With ohmmeter scale set at R x 1000, attach
meter leads to capacitor. The meter needle should go to
zero and come back slowly. If it does not, the capacitor
should be replaced.
6.
To check motor stator, remove power cord leads from
terminal bushings on top of motor (1ø only; 3ø remove wire
nuts). If stator is visibly burned, motor assembly must be
replaced.
5

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