Multiplex CARGO Instrucciones De Montaje página 14

Glue together the die-cut parts 47 and 48 as shown in the
drawing, leaving a slot which accepts the angled tailwheel
unit later. The next step is to cut away the cavity in the rudder
for this "plywood driver", cutting along the marked lines with
a sharp balsa knife. Check that the assembly fits neatly in
the recess. Cut away half of the projecting lug of the rudder
horn 82, and glue it to the rudder together with the plywood
tailwheel driver. The rudder and the plastic hinges are not
glued in place until the tailwheel unit 68 has been fitted.
6. Making and installing the steerable tailwheel unit
Glue together the die-cut plywood parts 42 to 44 and the
bowden cable outer 63 (about 85 mm long) to form the
tailwheel support and bush; the plastic sleeve should be flush
with the wood on one side and project on the other.
Slip a collet 93 (2 mm I.D.) on the long shank of the 1.5 mm
Ø tailwheel leg 68, slide it as far as the bend, and tighten the
M3 screw 87 to secure it. The purpose of this collet is to
minimise the landing shocks which are transferred to the
rudder, and its final position is established when the system
has been installed. Slide the tailwheel leg 68 through the
tailwheel bush 63 from the underside, measure a point about
100 mm from the angle of the leg, and bend the long shank
at right-angles (90°) at that point using a stout pair of
combination pliers. The angled end must be exactly parallel
with the tailwheel outrigger, to ensure that the model runs
straight when the rudder is at centre. This is important; adjust
the bend in the leg if necessary until the two shanks line up
correctly.
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7. Assembling and installing the main undercarriage units
Check that the main undercarriage legs 66 (right) and 67
(left) fit neatly in the undercarriage supports 36 to 39, then
glue the parts together using 5-minute epoxy. Sand the joint
surfaces of the undercarriage legs to ensure that the epoxy
adheres well, and clamp the parts together until the glue has
cured. Fit the two screws 59 on either side of the legs at front
right and left, to prevent the undercarriage legs forcing the
formers apart.Fix the wheels 80 to the undercarriage legs
using two collets 86 (3 mm I.D.) +58 each, retained with the
M3 grubscrews 87.
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8. Installing the joiner sleeves in the wings
Check that the joiner sleeves 61 fit in the slots in the wing
roots, and fit the root ribs 45 over the ends. Apply a short
strip of tape over the outboard end of the joiner sleeves to
prevent glue being forced into them. Slip the wing joiner 60
into the wing joiner sleeves 61. Glue the sleeves in the wings
using 5-minute epoxy, checking that each sleeve rests snugly
in the bottom of the angled recess in the wing, as the angle
of these recesses sets the correct wing dihedral. Position
the root ribs carefully, and fix them to the wing with a several
strips of tape while the resin is curing.
Drill a 6 mm Ø hole for the hardwood incidence peg 52 in
each root rib and into the wing. Push the dowels in the holes,
then fit the wing panels together using the GRP joiner tube
60 and the plywood box (loading bay) you have already
assembled. Check alignment carefully, and file out the holes
slightly if necessary using a round file to obtain close fits
between the wings and the plywood box. When you are
confident that everything fits correctly, glue the dowels in the
wing roots, leaving them projecting by about 10 mm. Fit the
wings and the loading bay together again, and align the wings
carefully until the glue has cured completely.
The production process leaves small projections inside the
spar slots in the wings, and these should now be cut away
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and removed using a sharp balsa knife; you may find a
screwdriver or similar tool helpful to gouge the waste material
out.
9. Connecting and installing the aileron servos
The model is designed for MULTIPLEX MS-X3 aileron servos.
Connect each aileron servo directly to a 30 cm servo
extension lead, # 8 5031.
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Install the servo and servo lead temporarily and cut a small
recess to accept the plug and socket. Allow the servo lead
to hang freely at the wing root. At the fuselage end connect
a separation filter lead # 8 5035 to the receiver for each
aileron servo. Connect the aileron extension leads, then
switch on the system and set the aileron trim to neutral to
centre the servos, so that you can check that the servo output
arms are at neutral before gluing the servos in place.
Shrink a piece of heat-shrink sleeving round each servo, or
wrap them in adhesive tape.
The tape or sleeve prevents glue entering the servo case,
and especially the servo gears, when the servo is glued
in the wing.
The servos can now be glued in the wing wells using 5-minute
epoxy; take care to apply glue only to the area where the
servo is protected by the sleeve or tape. Lay the servo lead
neatly in the cable duct and push the secondary spar 51 into
the slot to check the fit. When you are sure that the parts fit
properly, glue the spar in the wing and immediately wipe off
excess epoxy using methylated spirit on a rag.
10. Releasing and connecting the ailerons
Using a small, fine-tooth hacksaw blade (for a clean cut), cut
from the wing trailing edge forward to the hinge line gap at
both ends of the ailerons. Cut out the hinge strips from the
decal sheet and apply them along the top of the pivot line,
keeping the tape central over the hinge axis. Carefully move
the ailerons to and fro until you are sure that they move freely
enough.
You have already prepared the aileron horns 82; they can
now be glued in the appropriate recesses in the ailerons.
Connect the pre-formed end of the pushrod 72 to the
outermost hole in the servo output arm. At the aileron end
slip the pushrod through the pushrod connector 91 and secure
it by tightening the M3 grubscrew 87 using the allen key 76.
Check that the servo and aileron are both at centre before
you tighten the screw.
11. Mounting the propellers on the motors
If the model is to be flown in direct-drive mode, the propellers
95 can simply be glued to the motor shafts using a little 5-
minute epoxy, or UHU Plus Endfest 300 if you don't mind
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waiting overnight. Do not use cyano, as this will destroy the
plastic of the spinner. Push a pin through the spinner from
the front to ensure that air does not get trapped in front of
the motor shaft. Mix up a little epoxy and apply a drop to the
socket in the plastic spinner on a pin, then push the propeller
onto the motor shaft.
12. Deploying the power leads, connecting the motors
Run the motor power leads 97 through the root ribs from the
fuselage, and lay them in the cable duct running to the motor
pods. The cable terminating in the plug, which is connected
inside the fuselage, should be left projecting from the root
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rib by about 5 cm. Shorten the cables at the motor end as
required, strip about 5 mm from the insulation and tin the
bare copper ends.
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