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PHOTO 38: Stain the decks (66 & 67) the same colour as the previous ones and then lime them using the strips (72), cut
to 65 mm lengths. This part must be left incomplete, as shown in the photo, and will be finished when all of the middle
decks have been fitted into place in the ship.
PHOTOS 39-41: Check the adjustment and glue the decks (66 & 67) into place over the frame beams. Stain the rest of
the decks (68, 69, 70 & 71) and check to see how they fit between the frames before fixing them in place. Cut away the
lengths of the beams that run across the deck hatches and, using a round file, file down the holes in the middle midships
deck. Continue by fitting the planking strips (72) until you have lined the whole of the middle deck. Trim off the holes for
the hatches, the masts, the slots and the whole perimeter of the decks. Lightly sand down the whole of the surface and
simulate the nailing work on the planking, as before. Now varnish the deck with a coat of colourless pore-filling lacquer.
PHOTO 42: Using the strips (73) line the interior of the frame (3). Trim off the excess lining flush with the frame. Now
make up and glue the door frames (74), the lower sill (75) and the panels of the door (76).
PHOTOS 43 & 44: Using the parts (77) make up a complete grating, joining the parts together. Use fast-drying glue.
Now trim this down so that it has the same number of holes as shown in photo 43. Make up and glue the frames (78 &
79) stained the colour of sapele wood. Now cut to size the rungs (82) and make up the ladders with the uprights (80 &
81). Make up the frames (83 & 84) and stain them the colour of sapele wood. Now glue the ring (53) centred over the
hole in the deck. Fix the first ladder and grating in place as shown in photo 44.
PHOTO 45: Round off one of the edges of a 2 x 3 mm strip of lime wood, as shown in the photo. Stain the strip the
colour of sapele wood and then make up the frames (85 & 86) for the grating.
PHOTOS 46 & 47: Make up the stern hatch frames (87 & 88) stained the colour of sapele wood, and then glue the rings
(89 & 54) into place. Now fix the second ladder in the hole of the hatch. Line the frame (16) using the strips (73) and trim
off any excess.
PHOTO 48: Make up the grating (90) as shown in the photo and then make up the frames (91 & 92) and the sills (93 &
94), rounding off one of the edges, as before.
PHOTO 49: Fit together and glue the partitions (95, 96, 97, 98 & 99). Line the walls indicated by the red arrows using the
strips (100) and then trim off any excess lining.
PHOTOS 50 & 51: Make up the frames (101) and stain them the colour of sapele wood. Fit the sills (102) and eliminate
the lining where it covers the slots in the top of the partitions. Make up the four columns (103) and stain them the colour
of sapele wood. Now attach the cabin partitions to the slots marked on the deck.
PHOTO 52: Make up the beams (104) and stain them a dark oak colour. The beams have to be fitted into the slots in the
top of the partitions and must be supported by the lips of frames (4-15).
PHOTO 53: Stain the deck (105) the colour of dark oak. Using a ruler and pencil mark out a lengthways line on the deck
that divides it into two symmetrical halves. Line the deck with the strips (108), cut to 65 mm lengths, working outwards
from this central line. Again it is necessary to leave the lining work incomplete, as shown in the photo, as it will be
finished once all of the main deck parts have been fitted into lace on the ship.
PHOTOS 54 & 55: Make sure that the deck (105) fits onto the lips on the top of the frames (3, 4, 5, 6 & 7). Now stain the
decks (106 & 107) and check to make sure they fit correctly before fixing them definitively into place. It is very important
that you make sure that the deck is correctly aligned and fitted into place. Cut away the parts of the beams that are
visible through the hatch openings in the decks.
PHOTO 56: Now continue with the lining of the deck using the strips (108) until you reach the stern of the ship. As you
advance with the lining trim it away from the different holes in the deck. Sand down the surface using fine-grain
sandpaper and simulate the nailing at the ends of the planks, as before. Varnish the whole surface using satin-finish
colourless pore-filling lacquer.
PHOTO 57: Make up the gratings (109 & 110) and the frames (111, 112, 113 & 114) and stain the frames the colour of
sapele wood. Glue the three gratings into place centred over the holes in the main deck.
PHOTO 58: Make up the gratings (115 & 116) and then make up the frames (117, 118, 120 & 121) and stain the frames
the colour of sapele wood. Make up the part (119) and glue it centred on the grating (115).
PHOTO 59: Put together the ladder using the uprights (80 & 81) and the rungs (122). Make up the stern hatch frames
(123 & 124) and stain them the colour of sapele wood. Now glue the frames onto the main deck, flush with the hatch.
Insert and fix the ladder into the hatch hole. Glue the gratings that you made up in the last step centred over the holes in
the deck.
PHOTOS 60-62: In order to ensure a good contact surface for the lining strakes and to unify the surfaces of the frames,
with the help of a sanding block, file or similar, sand down the reinforcement chocks and bevel the edges of the frames
working from bow to stern. Sand down the length of the hull and also the profile of the main deck, so that the bulwarks
can subsequently be installed. Carry out the same operation at the stern of the ship and file down working from stern to
bow. Sand down the area of the stern using a half-round file. The false keel at the stern and the bow must be left intact.
As you progress with the sanding of the hull use a 2 x 5 mm strip of lime wood to make sure this is being done correctly,
checking to see whether or not it touches all of the fames. These steps must be repeated on both sides of the hull in
order to achieve a symmetrical finish.
PHOTO 63: Glue together the parts (125, 126 & 127). Apply filler on all sides to cover over the joins. Sand down the
assembly and then make up, first of all, the top frame (128), then the feet (129), which must stick out 3 mm below the
stove, and finally the bottom frame (130).
PHOTOS 64-66: Fit the parts (131, 132 & 133). Apply a coat of primer to the whole surface of the stove and then paint it
using black satin finish paint. Wait until the paint dries and then make 32 0.8 mm diameter holes in the frames,
distributed as shown in the photo. Now insert pins (A) into each hole, with the heads previously painted a gold colour.
Finally glue the stove onto the middle bow deck, aligned as shown in photo 66.
PHOTOS 67 & 68: Soak the bow bulwarks (134) in hot water for around 20 minutes, so that they gain flexibility. Fit and
glue the bulwarks into place making sure that the slots fit perfectly onto the lips of the deck, if necessary use fast-drying
glue. Cut away any excess of the bulwark that juts out below the level of the deck.
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