Maintenance - Pentair Hydromatic SP40 Manual De Funcionamiento E Instalacion

MAINTENANCE

Servicing should be performed only by knowledgeable pump
service contractors or authorized service stations.
1. Remove pump from sump: Before removing pump from
sump pit for repair, check if the trouble could simply be
a blown fuse, tripped circuit breaker, or a power cord not
completely inserted into the receptacle.
2. Check diaphragm switch: If the unit is being operated by
the automatic diaphragm switch, unplug the pump from the
piggyback receptacle and plug the pump directly into the
power source.
If the pump starts each time it is plugged directly into the
receptacle and does not start each time when plugged into
the piggyback switch with the diaphragm switch pressed
into a start position, replace the complete piggyback switch
assembly and retest with new assembly.
3. Check for impeller blockage: Disconnect pump and
switch from power source. Check for an obstruction in the
impeller cavity by laying the pump on its side and inserting a
screwdriver into impeller. Impeller should turn freely.
If impeller is stuck, then turn the pump on its side,
DRAIN THE OIL through the oil fill plug on top of the pump.
Drain oil into a clean, dry container. A milky appearance
to the oil indicates that water has entered through either
worn out or damaged seals (7) or seal ring. Remove the 4
screws (6) to remove the volute (9). If the impeller (10) does
not rotate freely, clear the impeller and cavity walls before
reassembling the base. Repeat Step 2.
4. Check power cord: If the above tests have not resolved
the problem, it may be in the electrical components of the
pump. Starting with the power cord (2), inspect for cuts or
nicks in the insulation. If the cord is damaged – replace it!
5. Remove the motor cover: Use a screw driver to pry the
motor cover (3) from the seal plate (8) at the fastening ears,
being careful not to cut the seal ring with the screwdriver
or crack the motor cover. Lift the motor cover until it clears
the stator (4).
6. Check for short: Disconnect the stator leads from the
connector. Use an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the
stator. If stator fails to pass the continuity test, it must be
replaced.
Ground check: Set ohmmeter scale pointer to R X 100K
scale and check meter by putting both meter leads together
and adjusting theneedle knob until meter reads zero.
If meter cannot be adjusted to zero it will indicate that
batteries in meter must be replaced.
Always make this test with the meter when scale pointer is
set to a new scale before making any checks on motor.
Now connect one meter lead to one blade terminal of
stator and touch other meter lead to motor stator shell
(4). If needle reads below 5 (500,000 ohms) stator must
be dried out before reusing. To dry out, bake in 220° oven
HYD881 (05-26-20)
for 4 hours. Recheck after motor cools. If motor is new or
thoroughly dry, needle of ohmmeter will not move on the
ground test. This indicates a reading of 50 megohms or
higher. One megohm is one million ohms.
When making the ground test, if the needle goes clear to
zero the motor probably has a wire touching the stator at
some point and the stator will have to be replaced.
Winding resistance test. If motor shows a satisfactory
ground test, then the winding resistance must be checked.
Use ohmmeter with scale pointer set on R X 1 scale. On
this scale meter reads directly on ohms. Always check the
meter with leads together as described above under ground
test before making a reading of the winding.
Connect one meter lead to each of the black terminal leads.
Meter should read about 1.9 ohms. This is the resistance of
the main winding for a 115 volt stator. This reading for a 230
volt stator should be about 7.7 ohms.
Now remove the capacitor and connect one meter lead to
each of the brown wire terminals. The meter should read
about 12 ohms for a 115 volt stator. For a 230 volt stator this
reading should be 21.3 ohms. This is the resistance of the
start winding.
7. Remove the stator: To remove the stator, remove the four
hex head screws and disconnect the brown capacitor leads
from the capacitor and remove the stator plate with the
capacitor. Lift the stator off the seal plate (8) and set aside.
8. Remove the impeller: To remove the impeller (10), hold
the motorshaft (5) with a screwdriver at the center of the
impeller and tap the impeller with a plastic or rubber mallet
so as to turn the impeller counterclockwise.
9. Check the seal: Remove the rotating portion of seal (6) from
shaft by inserting a screwdriver under the edge of the seal
and lifting it off. Inspect the seal face for any nicks or an
uneven seating of seal face. If any are present, replace the
seal. (See Step 13.)
10. Remove rotor and shaft: Tap the rotor shaft (5) at the
impeller end of the shaft with a plastic mallet to remove the
rotor and shaft. Inspect the bearings. If they do not rotate
freely and smoothly, they should be replaced.
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0 20 40
Capacity in US Gallons per Minute (GPM)
60 80 100 120 140
5