ENGLISH
Belay device with assisted hand braking (belaying and rappel-
ling without a panic locking function)
NOMENCLATURE (fig. 1)
[1] Fixed side plate, [2] Moving side plate, [3] Attachment holes
[4] Handle , [5] Moving cam, [6] Fixed cam, [7] Braking side of the
rope, [8] Axles, [9] Climber side of the rope, [10] Locking screw,
[11] Hole for the locking screw
FIELD OF APPLICATION:
Belay device for rock climbing, alpinism and other connected ac-
tivities.
The device is intended to withstand efforts in the context of activity
presenting a risk of falling from height.
Conforms to EN 15151-1 : 2012 type 6– devices for belaying and
rappelling assisted by hand without a panic locking function.
The device should be used with dynamic rope (EN 892) single wit-
hin a diameter range of: 8.5 ≤ Ø ≤ 10.5 mm.
COMPATIBILITY:
Ensure that the recommended rope diameters are used, to ensure
that the system works correctly.
Warning, the commercial diameter of ropes can have a tolerance
of +/- 0.2 mm.
Warning, the braking efficiency can be considerably reduced when
using a new rope.
Be aware that braking efficiency and ease of running a rope in the
device are influenced by diameter, structure, flexibility, wear, and
other characteristics such as moisture, frost, mud. Warning; You
must familiarize yourself with belaying and descending with the
device each time you use a different rope from your usual rope
and / or when the conditions of use are different from the usual
conditions.
Check the compatibility of this product with other elements of the
system.
The elements used with your device must comply with the stan-
dards in your country.
Verify the compatibility of this product with the other components
in your system (connector, shape, and dimension).
The connector should be a locking type system.
WARNING
These instructions must be read and retained by the owner and
users. Should they be lost, they can be downloaded from Edelweiss-
ropes.com.
It is essential, for the safety of the user, that the retailer supplies
the method of use, the instructions for maintenance and periodic
examinations, and the instructions relating to repairs, drafted in the
language of the country of use of the product.
The types of wrong use presented in this notice are not exhaustive.
There are too many cases of inappropriate use to list.
This product requires the learning of special technique and com-
petence.
This product must be used by competent and responsible persons,
or those placed under the direct control of a competent person.
Users must be medically fit for activities at height.
Warning; inert suspension in a harness may result in severe injury
or death in just a few minutes for an unconscious person.
"Second hand" equipment is not advised. It should be reserved for
use by one person.
You are responsible for your own actions and decisions.
RECOMMENDATIONS:
High or low temperatures, humidity, frost, mud, rain, oil and dust
may have a negative effect on the performance of the equipment
and the rope connected to it.
The equipment must not be used beyond its limits or in any situa-
tion for which it is not intended.
Do not use cable or ropes other than EN892.
Repair or modification of the product by yourself is forbidden.
PERIODIC EXAMINATION AND INSPECTION POINTS
The user's safety depends upon maintaining the efficiency and
strength of the equipment.
The inspection frequency depends upon the frequency of use and
must allow for factors such as regulation, the type of equipment and
environmental conditions.
Regular inspections must be carried out at least once every 12 mon-
ths by a qualified person.
The product must be REPLACED if it shows any sign of deforma-
tion, corrosion, cracking, burrs, etc.
PRE-USE INSPECTION
Ensure that the product is free of corrosion, cracks, deformation,
abrasion, wear, sharp edges, etc.
Ensure that the cam can move freely with no sticking or stiffness.
Ensure that the cam's spring works and makes the cam block.
The surfaces of the cams and any other element in contact with the
rope must have no surface defects or sharp edges.
Ensure that the attachment connector turns freely in the attach-
ment points.
Ensure that the attachment connector locks correctly.
Ensure that the product is clean.
DURING EACH USE
Ensure that the rope is correctly positioned inside the device.
Ensure that the rope is not soiled with contaminants, abrasive ma-
terials, mud or frozen.
The proper functioning of the device and the good connection and
disposition of the other components of the system are important
for its safe use.
Ensure that the attachment connector remains locked.
If it turns out that the device is not able to function normally you
must stop using it.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Function principle and test (fig. 2)
When a climber falls, the Climber side of the rope [9] becomes taut,
the device body pivots around the Connection hole [3]. At the same
time the belayer's hand, that holds the braking side of the rope [7],
allows engagement of the Moving cam [5] which pivots around its
axel, pinching the rope against the Fixed cam [6] for it to brake.
Warning: For a good operation, it is essential that the user holds the
Braking rope in hand and constantly controls the Rope brake side
[7]. At all times, the Moving cam [5] and the body of the device
[1 + 2] must be completely free to rotate in order to not hinder
or even cancel the braking action, which could result in a risk of
a fall to the ground.
In order to gradually release the braking, the user holds the Braking
side of the rope [7] and slowly pulls up the Handle [4] which will
release the pinching on the rope.
Installation of the rope and test of the device (Fig. 3)
Open the device by rotating the Side plate [2], insert the rope into
the device as indicated by the markings. Close the Side plate [2] and
insert a safety locking karabiner into the Connection hole [3] of the
Fixed and Moving side plates [1+2]. Connect the karabiner to the
harness ring dedicated to belaying.
Always perform a functional test by pulling hard on the Climbing
side of the rope [9] and keeping the Braking side of the rope in your
hand [7]. The device must stop the slipping of the rope.
Locking of the moving Side plate - additional security (fig. 4)
When the device is intended to be used by inexperienced climbers,
it is possible to lock the Side plate [2] by inserting and screwing
the Locking screw [10] into the Locking hole [11]. It will not be
possible to open the device manually, thus avoiding the risk for the
user to reverse the direction of the rope. This additional security
also ensures that the two plates of the device will be connected
simultaneously.
Belaying (fig. 5)
Before using the device, you must know the proper belaying tech-
niques.
In all circumstances, you must pay attention to the progress of the
climber and always hold the Braking side of the rope. [7] You must
not hold the device in your hand, you must not block the Moving
cam [5]. For more comfort and to avoid burns or pinching it is re-
commended to belay with leather gloves.
Giving slack (fig. 6)
The hand holding the Braking side of the rope [7] pushes the rope
through the device while the other hand picks up the Climber side
of the rope [9]. To give slack more quickly it is possible to move up
the hand holding the Braking side of the rope [7] parallel to the
Climber side of the rope [9]. Thus, the fluidity is improved.
Taking up slack (fig. 7)
In order to reduce the slack in the rope, pull the Climber side of the
rope [9] towards the device and at the same time pull the braking
side of the rope so that the rope is pulled through the device [7].
Climber's pause (fig. 8)
If the climber needs to pause for a while, take up slack and hang
on the rope. During the pause always pay attention to the actions
of the climber.
Arresting a fall (fig. 9)
To arrest a fall, hold firmly the Braking side of the rope [7] exerting
a downward force. To obtain a more dynamic belaying it is recom-
mended to take a step forward or even a small jump that minimizes
the force to the climber and avoids a loss of balance of the belayer.
Lowering (fig. 10)
Take up slack and hang on the rope. When the climber is also han-
ging on the rope the manoeuver can begin. In order to gradually
release the braking, keep hold of the Braking side of the rope [7]
and slowly raise the handle with the other hand [4] which will can-
cel the pinching on the rope. Warning: the action on the Handle