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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
MISSISSIPPI
HULL
PHOTO 1 & 2: Assemble the structure of the hull following the numerical order of the photos. First glue the false keel onto the
bottom of the hull. Before gluing the frames make sure that they fit correctly and firmly into position in the corresponding slots.
Also fit the knightheads (no. 11) into position. For this operation use white (carpenter's) glue as an adhesive.
PHOTO 3: Glue the first half of the main deck into position. Make sure that the slot indicated ends up in the position shown in
the photo. Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 4 to 6: Glue the second half off the main deck into position at the stern and also make sure that the small slot indicated
ends up in the position shown. Use quick-drying glue. Where the two parts of the deck meet, glue the reinforcements (no. 14)
into place, and at the stern, glue the transom (no. 15), using white glue.
PHOTO 7 to 10: Using a strip of wood, wrapped in medium-grain sandpaper, sand down the edges of all of the frames to even
them up with the bottom of the hull. The false keel must be sharpened at the bow, round off the area between the transom and
the bottom of the hull.
PHOTO 11 to 14: Before starting to line the hull, the lining strakes (no. 16) can be soaked in water so that they recover their
elasticity. The work of lining starts immediately below the deck, working down to the bottom of the hull, using white glue and
pins. The excess lining is trimmed off at both bow and stern. The lining must be applied to both sides of the hull. Sand it down to
unify the surface and leave the pin heads level with the surface of the wooden strip.
PHOTO 15 to 18: Start the work of lining the deck in the middle, using the strips (no. 17) alternately. Cut 100 mm lengths, as
shown in the photo. Trim off the excess and open up the slots in the deck where the bulkheads and sides fit. To simulate a
planking effect and the caulking on the decks, go over the joints between the lining strips using a pencil. Use contact adhesive
(cobbler's glue) for gluing all of this type of lining strips.
PHOTO 19 to 25: Start to line the sides of the hull using the lining strips (no. 19). Cut off 300 mm lengths to carry out a
staggered lining and give an air of realism to the hull. Trim off the excess and do the lining work on both parts. Line the base of
the hull, also using approx. 300 mm lengths. Sand down all of the hull lining and deck lining gently to eliminate pick-ups. Use
contact adhesive (cobbler's glue).
PHOTO 26 & 27: Make the two chamfers anticipated in the keel, as shown in the side view, plan no. 1, and glue them centred to
the bottom of the hull. Use quick-drying glue.
PHOTO 28 & 29: Cut two lengths of strip (no. 21) and rebate them as shown in the photo. Glue the blades (no. 22) and paint
them dark grey. Use acrylic modelling paint. Make two 6 mm diameter holes in the centre of the transom, at the distance
indicated in the photo. Glue them into place aligning the blades with the keel.
PHOTO 30 to 32: Take the side (no. 23) and line it using the strips (no. 24) on the side shown in the photo, without covering the
slots at the bottom. The slot indicated by the arrow must be covered. Trim off the excess and mark all of the joints between the
strips with a pencil. Repeat the operation with the parts (nos. 25 & 27). Sand them down gently to eliminate the pick-ups.
PHOTO 33 & 34: Glue the parts made up (nos. 23 & 27) to the deck, arranged as indicated in the photo. Paint the bulkhead (no.
30) ochre and glue it into the slots in the side (no. 23) and in the deck. Also glue bulkhead (no. 29) into place. Make sure,
without gluing it, that the side (no. 27) fits into place, this bulkhead will be removable.
PHOTO 35 & 36: Find the bulkhead (no. 31) and also paint it the colour ochre. Glue it to the bulkhead (no. 29) and onto the
deck. Make sure that the slots indicated by the arrow are facing the left side of the photo. Also paint the partition (no. 32) and
the bulkhead (no. 33) colour ochre. Line the exterior side of the bulkhead (no. 33) with the strips (no. 34) and glue the two parts
as shown in the photo.
PHOTO 37 & 38: Line the side (no. 35) using the strips (no. 36), in the same way as with the previous sides. Fit all of the
windows using quick-drying glue. Finally make sure that the bulkhead (no. 35) fits correctly into place, but do not glue it.
PHOTO 39 & 40: Line both sides of the bulkhead (no. 31) with the strips (no. 38). Cut four lengths of the strip (no. 39) and glue
two of them onto the side of the structure that will be fixed and use the other two to cover over the slots in the side shown. Do
not glue this side into place, so that it can later be removed, allowing the interior to be seen. Cut four lengths of the strip (no. 40)
and glue them over the slots in the bulkhead (no. 31), and the slots in the bulkhead at the back of the hull.
PHOTO 41 to 43: Glue two lengths of the strip (no. 39) to the corners of the fixed part of the structure. At the front of the
structure glue another length into place to cover the slot in the bulkhead. Glue another length to the side (no. 35) and make sure
that it opens and closes correctly.
PHOTO 44 to 47: Take the printed sheet of decorations and find number 41, which corresponds to the casino. Start by cutting
out the one indicated as no. 1, which corresponds to the aft entrance bulkhead. Continue fitting the decoration (nos. 2, 3 & 4) for
the other fixed parts of the structure. Glue the decorations to the removable sides (nos. 5 & 6). Use slightly diluted white glue.
PHOTO 48 & 49: Take the two sides (no. 42) and paint the interior surface colour ochre. Line the exterior part with the strips
(no. 43) and glue the corresponding windows into lace. Fit the sides into place but do not glue them to the structure and glue to
them two lengths of the strip (no. 40), covering the slots at the ends. These sides are removable.
PHOTO 50 to 52: Glue a first approx. 300 mm length of the strip (no. 44) onto the profile of the deck. Start to glue it at the
middle and working back along both sides. Use quick-drying glue. Complete the lining using other strips and working back
towards the stern, and finally add the finishing strips (no. 45). Glue two more lengths of the finishing strip (no. 39) to the aft
bulkhead, adjusted to the existing hole.
PHOTO 53: Fit the base boards (no. 46) to the interior of the engine room on both sides.
PHOTO 54: Cut and glue the parts (nos. 47 & 48), judging the slope by looking at plan no. 1.
PHOTO 55: Glue the strips (nos. 49, 50 & 51) flush with the tops of the sides. Also glue strips to the tops of the removable
sides.
PHOTO 56: Paint the whole bottom part of the overhanging deck colour ochre.
PHOTO 57: Glue the breakwater (no. 52) into place on the deck. In order to b e able to bend it into shape you can soak this strip
in hot water, or use a soldering iron. Check deck "A" on the plan (no. 1).
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