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Fig. 34
A. BEVEL CUT
B. G-CLAMP
12.9
COMPOUND MITRE CUT
See Figures 35 and 36.
A compound mitre cut is a mitre cut with a bevel. This type of cut is used for making picture frames, cutting mouldings, making
boxes with sloping sides and for cutting certain roofing timbers.
For compound mitre cuts, the mitre table must be turned to the required angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the required
bevel angle. Care should always be taken when setting up compound mitres because the two angle settings are
interdependent.
When you adjust the mitre setting you change the effect of the bevel setting. Equally, when you adjust the bevel setting you
change the effect of the mitre setting.
It may take several cycles of setting to obtain the required cut. The first angle setting should be checked after setting the
second angle, since adjusting the second angle affects the first.
Once the correct settings for a particular cut have been achieved, always make a test cut in an offcut before making a final
cut in the workpiece.
Fig. 35
A. G-CLAMP
B. COMPOUND MITRE CUT
12.10 MAKING A COMPOUND MITRE CUT WITH YOUR MITRE SAW
•
Pull out the locking pin and raise the saw arm fully up.
•
Raise the mitre table clamping lever.
•
Turn the mitre table until the index is aligned with the required angle on the mitre scale.
•
Push the mitre table clamping lever back down.
NOTE: The angles 0°, 22?°, 30° and 45° left and right are clearly marked on the scale. The mitre table can be located
at one of the positive stops on the mitre table frame.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, always push the mitre table clamping lever back down before cutting.
If the mitre table is not clamped, it may move during cutting.
•
Slacken the bevel clamping knob and tilt the saw arm to the left to the required angle.
•
The angle can be set from 0° to 45°.
•
Align the index with the required angle.
•
Once the saw arm has been set to the required angle, tighten the bevel clamping knob.
•
Recheck the mitre angle setting. Make a test cut in an offcut.
•
Put the workpiece flat on the mitre table with one edge firmly against the fence. If the workpiece is warped, put the
convex side against the fence. If the concave side of a workpiece is put against the fence, the kerf could pinch the blade
and jam it near the end of the cut. See Figures 39 and 40.
•
When cutting long pieces of timber or mouldings, support the far end of the workpiece on a stand or workbench level
with the saw table.
•
Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the saw blade.
•
Hold the workpiece with one hand firmly against the fence. Use a vice or G-clamp to secure the workpiece whenever
possible. See Figure 35.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, keep your hands outside the "keep hands clear" zone, at least 80 mm
from the blade. Never cut freehand (without holding the workpiece against the fence). The blade could jam in the
workpiece if it slips or twists.
•
Before turning on the saw, try a dummy run to make sure that no problems will occur when the cut is made.
•
Hold the saw handle firmly, press the lock button, then squeeze the trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
•
Slowly lower the blade through the workpiece. See Figures 35 and 36.
•
Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of the workpiece. Wait until the
electric brake has stopped the blade turning before removing the workpiece from the mitre table.
Fig. 36
45° X 45° COMPOUND MITRE CUT
43
GB
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