Chef's Choice 130 Manual Del Usuario página 9

pair of areas on the rods several thousand times before the wear affects the rate or
precision of the edge formation, the rods will not need to be rotated very often and they
can last a lifetime with normal household use. Replacement rods are, however, available
from the EdgeCraft Corporation.
CREATING THE PROFESSIONAL STEELED EDGE
The steeled edge is created simply by first sharpening the blade normally in Stage 1 and
then steeling in Stage 2. The highly accurate angle guides in Stage 1 and Stage 2 are set
at precisely the optimum angles to insure rapid and full development of the steeled edge.
Fine microscopic serrations are consequently created in Stage 2 while maintaining the
geometry and sharpness created in the Stage 1 sharpening step.
Step 1.
Sharpen the blade fully in Stage 1 as described in the preceding section and
summarized below:
a. Pull the blade slowly through the left slot of stage 1. Repeat by pulling the
blade through the right slot of Stage 1.
b. Repeat (a) above by pulling the knife again through the left and right slots of
Stage 1. Check the blade edge to insure a burr has been fully formed along
the entire edge (See figures 4 and 5). Then proceed to Step 2.
Step 2.
Steel the edge in Stage 2.
Move the blade forward over the left slot of Stage 2 and insert it between the guide plane
and the blade retaining spring (See Figure 8) as close as possible to the bolster or handle.
The face of the blade should be in intimate contact with the guide plane. Pull the blade
toward you as you press down lightly on the blade so the edge makes good contact with
the steel rod (NOTE: The miniature steel rod is stationary and not powered). Make sure the
edge maintains steady contact with the steel rod from the handle to the tip of the blade.
Repeat this procedure making a full stroke in the opposite right slot between that guide
and the spring. You should repeat this motion making alternating pairs of pulls until the
edge is fully conditioned.
You need make only about 10 pairs of alternating pulls to develop a good edge. Making
another 10 pairs of alternating pulls will further refine the edge and remove virtually
all remnants of the burr left from pre-sharpening. You will now find the knife cuts
exceedingly well.
RESHARPENING THE STEELED EDGE
Whenever your knives appear to lose their "bite" or to be slightly dull, you can recondition
the edge to its prior performance with only about 10 pairs of alternating pulls in Stage 2.
You will need more pulls than that only if you have used the knife heavily for an extended
time. Resharpen the edge in Stage 1 when you feel it is taking too long (too many strokes)
to recondition the edge in Stage 2 to its initial performance.
Because you can reestablish the microstructure along the steeled edge of your knives so
easily and so many times before it will be necessary to resharpen the edge, you will find
your knives last longer. Conventional steels lacking angle control will, in most hands,
create a rounded and dull the edge after steeling the edge only a few times, making it
necessary to resharpen the edge frequently, thus reducing the useful life of the knife.
The Professional Sharpening Station® is not designed to steel the edge of serrated blades.
You can steel the single beveled Japanese Kataba type knives. However, because the
edge on one side of these knives is not beveled, you will optimize your results by applying
slightly less pressure when that side of the edge is being conditioned.
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