MODES OF USE
Ad 4. Double strand – Constricted
The anchor device is shortened so that the pulley just
passes through the soft eye. This configuration is useful for
work positioning on stems when the climber is close to the
anchor point e.g. when removing sections from a vertical
stem.
The the soft eye may be loaded at all times, so that
problems may be experienced during retrieval i.e. when
attempting to pull the pulley through the soft eye. It may be
necessary to flick the climbing line (on the pulley) to allow
the pulley to pass through the soft eye.
fig. 8
Ad 5. Doubled – using both Prusik Loops with pulley and
thimble
In this configuration the Prusik Loop with thimble is not
only used for retrieval of the system but also as a load bea-
ring part of the anchor. The Soft Eye is not used.
Note: The Prusik Loop with thimble contains a core of
Dyneema
fibers that are not heat resistant. When installed
®
correctly, the friction hitch is positioned where needed and
remains in that position. Movement of a loaded friction can
lead to heat build up through friction/abrasion. Heat build-
up (>60°C) must be avoided.
The pulleySAVER is placed around the structural anchor
(tree/branch). The length of the pulleySAVER is adjusted
with the help of the two Prusik Loops. To ensure reliable
fig. 9
function, ensure that the Prusik knots are: Not in contact
with the structure; and Correctly tied, dressed and set.
Note: Beware that lateral movements by the climber may cause the anchor device to migrate
across the structure to a location where it is no longer suitable for use as a fall protection
anchor. It is the user's responsibility to monitor the anchor device. Please make sure that the
Pinto pulley and the thimble on the Prusik loop do not contact one another.
Ad 6. Equilizing anchor – using the equaLIZA
This mode of use is typically selected when the climber is not confident about the structural
strength of one anchor on its own, or when an anchor needs to be created between two exi-
sting points. (fig. 10)
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